PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA 🇰🇭: Coffee, Books, and Finding My Feet in Phnom Penh

Coffee Contemplations:

I’m starting to get into a rhythm here.
The days are settling into a pattern: wake up, walk to a café, order my straight black iced coffee with no sugar, and sit in a chair with a book. Then another café, another coffee, more reading. It’s a good way to get to know a city.

Getting acclimated to a new place always takes a little while, and I’ve done it enough times now to know the stages. First comes the sensory overload: the traffic, the heat, the noise, the smells. Then I start to figure out the basics, like how to cross the street and where to buy my water and coconuts and what a fair price for a tuk-tuk ride looks like. That’s when it starts to feel like home, or at least a temporary version of it.

Today, I’m sitting at a café on a street corner, and I’m reading “The History of Cambodia.” It’s surreal.

Here I am, reading about the history of this country while sitting in the middle of it. I’ll read a passage about the country’s past, then look up, and there’s the city in front of me: the motorbikes, the vendors, the people walking by on an ordinary day. The past is on the page, and the present is going by at the intersection. The book and the street keep talking to each other. With me in the middle.
It changes how I see things. A building is no longer just a building. A street name means something. I catch myself wondering about the people who’ve walked this same sidewalk and what they lived through. Reading history in a place is completely different from reading it somewhere far away.

That’s the part I love about traveling this way. I’m not rushing through and ticking off sights. I’m sitting still long enough to let a place seep in, one coffee and one chapter at a time.

I don’t know exactly where this life takes me next. But for now, I have a good book, a good coffee, and a chair on any corner in Phnom Penh.

September 2026

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA 🇰🇭: THE FIRST WEEK OF COFFEE ON MY RETURN

Straight black, no sugar, that’s my order everywhere I go. Most of the time. Here in Phnom Penh, it’s been perfect every single time. No bitterness, usually two shots of espresso in there for a real caffeine hit, and every café I’ve tried so far has nailed it. Not one miss yet.

The café is named after that adorable dog, Tofe.

Saigon was a different story. The black coffee there was hit or miss depending on the place, and you always had to remember to specify no sugar, because if you didn’t, it would somehow find its way into the cup anyway. Here in Phnom Penh, they actually ask you about your sugar preference every time. No guessing, no fine print, they just check. I appreciate that.

Now, when it comes to specialty drinks, that’s where Saigon wins, no contest. But I understand why now. It’s the sugar. All of it. That’s the secret ingredient behind those elaborate Vietnamese coffee drinks that make them so good.

Even here in Phnom Penh, when I ordered a salt cream coffee, they still asked if I wanted sugar in it, so I could say no. And honestly, it was still tasty without it. Cambodia is clearly building something good with its coffee scene.
But overall, Saigon’s specialty coffee culture is still unmatched. Phnom Penh is getting there, and it’s got the fundamentals locked down, but it hasn’t caught up to Saigon’s game yet.

Delicious Himalayan Salt Cream Coffee with no sugar

September 2026

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA 🇰🇭: FOODIE ADVENTURES SEPTEMBER, PART 1

Power Bowl: Chicken, Cheddar Cheese, Quinoa, Brown Rice, Guacamole, Hummus, Roasted Tomatoes, Spinach, Pickled Cucumber, Almonds, Salad

September 2026

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA 🇰🇭: WAT PHNOM

The story of a humble woman whose devotion shaped the destiny of a nation…

On top of a small hill in the heart of the capital, stands Wat Phnom, a sacred temple that marks the beginning of Phnom Penh’s story.

According to Cambodian tradition, Lady Penh, also known as Daun Penh, lived along the banks of the Tonlé Sap River in the late fourteenth century. One day, after heavy rains had swollen the river, she discovered a large floating koki tree. Curious about the unusual sight, she had the tree brought ashore and found within it four bronze Buddha statues and a statue of the Hindu deity Vishnu.

Believing the sacred images to be a sign from the heavens, Lady Penh gathered the villagers and ordered the construction of an artificial hill to house the statues. A shrine was built on top, creating a place of worship that would eventually become Wat Phnom.

The hill became known as “Phnom Penh,” meaning “Penh’s Hill,” and over time the surrounding settlement grew into the city that would later become Cambodia’s capital. What began as an act of faith by one woman transformed into the foundation of a thriving metropolis that today is home to millions of people.

At the base of the hill, the famous flower clock welcomes visitors and symbolizes the passage of time. Together with the ancient temple above, it represents the harmonious blend of history and modern life that defines Phnom Penh today.

10june26

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA 🇰🇭 STREET ART: BUDDHA by YI KAKADA

Yi Kakada (often known as Kakada Yi) is a prominent, self-taught contemporary Cambodian street artist and muralist. Born in 1996 in Battambang province—historically the artistic hub of Cambodia—he has become a recognizable figure in the Kingdom’s flourishing urban art scene.

One of Kakada’s most famous physical talents is his ability to paint ambidextrously. He can draw different images with both hands simultaneously, a skill that often captivates audiences during live painting showcases. He is also recognized for creating “two-canvas” paintings that seamlessly merge to tell a singular story.

Kakada’s journey to becoming a full-time artist is marked by resilience. He lost both of his parents at an early age and faced severe financial hardship, which forced him to drop out of high school. He moved to Phnom Penh with his siblings to look for opportunities, relying entirely on his raw talent. 

Without formal art school training, he mastered his craft through hands-on practice, initially using standard house paint because expensive spray cans were out of reach. His breakthrough came when he won first place in the “Asian Drawing Category” in a competition organized by UNESCO.

7june26

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA 🇰🇭 STREET ART: 🪶

17june26

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA 🇰🇭: WAT SARAVAN

If you slip just a few blocks northwest of the palace grounds, you’ll find yourself standing before the quiet, sun-drenched courtyard of Wat Saravan (officially Wat Saravan Techo).

While it rarely tops the generic “must-see” lists for casual tourists, this historic pagoda holds a profound significance. It is a living survivor of Cambodia’s complex history and, quite literally, a legendary treasury of traditional knowledge.

1422 (The Legendary Foundation): Local history states that the temple was first established in the early 15th century when Phnom Penh was just beginning to expand. At the time, this area was a swampy forest known as Boeung Reang. It was one of seven foundational pagodas that anchored the early spiritual landscape of the city.

1892 (The Modern Rebuild): The classic, elegant brick structures and layout you wander through today were constructed in 1892 under the reign of King Norodom, a time when Phnom Penh was being extensively remodeled.

Like so many sacred spaces in Cambodia, Wat Saravan fell dark during the Khmer Rouge regime from 1975 to 1979. It was emptied, desecrated, and abandoned. Walking through it today, watching the saffron robes of the resident monks glide past restored stupas, you realize that its quiet presence isn’t just scenic—it’s a monument to cultural resilience.

The Great Library of the Kingdom

While its architecture is stunning, Wat Saravan’s truest claim to fame is intellectual. Historically, this monastery was the epicentre of manuscript preservation in Cambodia.

Before the mid-20th century conflicts, Wat Saravan housed more than 3,400 ancient palm-leaf manuscripts (Sastras), making it what scholars widely considered the largest traditional library in the country.

These were not standard books. Scribes meticulously scratched sacred texts onto dried, treated palm leaves, preserving thousands of years of Pali and Khmer knowledge. These fragile leaves contained everything from deep Buddhist philosophy and epic poetry to foundational records of traditional medicine, astronomy, and ancient law.

9june2026

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA 🇰🇭: WAT OUNALOM MONASTERY

Wat Ounalom.

“Ounalom” translates to “eyebrow hair.” Founded in 1443, this sacred site is the spiritual heart of Cambodian Buddhism and houses a revered relic: a hair from the Buddha’s eyebrow.

It survived the devastation of the Khmer Rouge era. Today it’s a symbol of Cambodia’s resilience and enduring faith.

8june26

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA 🇰🇭 STREET ART: CAMBODIA URBAN ART

7june26

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA 🇰🇭 STREET ART: 🪶

17june26