Vietnamese community propaganda, or tranh cổ động.
*While the word “propaganda” often carries a heavy political weight in the West, in Vietnam, it is frequently used by local wards (phường) for social mobilization and civic education.
“VÌ MỘT MÔI TRƯỜNG XANH” (For a Green Environment)
😆 The wonderful irony: a mural pleading for a green environment serves as a shelf for a plastic takeaway cup of trà tắc (kumquat tea).
Before I got here, the Cafe Apartment building at 42 Nguyen Hue was at the top of my list. A 1960s apartment block with 50 cafes stacked nine stories high. I’d seen the photos a hundred times. I finally went. Stood outside. Took this photo. And realized everything I wanted was down there. The best coffee in this city costs 15,000 dong on a plastic stool from a woman who doesn’t have an Instagram account. The best food is served on a plate you didn’t choose from a menu you can’t read. The best views are at eye level, not from a balcony. Saigon doesn’t get better the higher you go. It gets better the closer you sit to the ground.Kids skating Dong Khoi today. The same street where French officers took evening walks, where war correspondents filed stories from the Continental, where tanks rolled in on April 30, 1975. Now it’s a skate spot. Vietnam’s youth keep finding ways to claim public space that nobody offered them. Fifty years from revolution to kickflip. Uncle Ho didn’t plan for this but I think the street is better for it.There are writers getting up high here.
What was supposed to be a simple, breezy week-long border run to Phnom Penh has turned into a bureaucratic existential crisis. But hey, at least the coffee is keeping me going. Here is how my week tasted:
1. ENSO Cafe
The Vibe: I woke up way earlier than most sensible cafes care to open. After a morning stroll to the Independence Monument, I stumbled on this spot. I’m sitting outside under a roof with a nice breeze, learning a little Khmer: Some cafe trojeak moo-oy (an iced coffee, please).
The Damage: 12,300 Riels (about $3).
The Brew: It’s not even 7:30 AM yet and the heat from the sun is already intense. The cold brew is absolute perfection.
Socials: IG: @ensocafe
Language practice: Good Morning = Arun Suostei. Thank you = Orkūn.
2. 1987 Pang + Café
The Brew: I ordered an Iced Coconut Coffee. It’s notably less sweet than the ones you get across the border in Vietnam—and honestly, that’s probably a good thing.
The Vibe: The staff here were polite enough to actually ask, “Normal sweet or extra sweet?” In Vietnam, they don’t ask; they just drop the sugar bomb. I respect both approaches, but I told them, “Normal. The way you do it in Cambodia!” Et voilà, here we are.
Soundtrack of the moment: Charles Mingus – Myself When I’m Real 🎶
The Vibe: Upon walking in, the staff strategically deployed their most capable English speaker—a young, quaking guy whom I unintentionally accosted with a barrage of investigative questions about what I should order. Bless him, he walked me through an impressive explanation of three different specialty coffees. Together, we decided I should try the Café Samai Derm (the original/traditional style). Side note: Samai means “era” or “generation”.
The Brew: I got it because the barista told me it was his personal favorite and that he drinks it every single day. He wasn’t lying. It’s good. I’m happy.
The Reality Check: To be totally honest, I didn’t even finish it, and I was hardly conscious of what it tasted like. It was definitely good and strong, but my head was entirely somewhere else.
The Visa Intermission (Where things go sideways)
I am currently having serious visa issues. I thought this was going to be an easy run: leave Vietnam on a bus at 9:45 AM on Monday, June 1st, cross the border, apply for a new 90-day visa online, and just hang out and enjoy Phnom Penh for a week. I’d get my approved visa, be happy, and board a return bus on Sunday, June 7th.
The universe—or rather, the Vietnam Embassy in Hanoi—had completely different plans.
On Tuesday, they replied: “You must leave VN before applying for a visa.” But I did leave! I received that same exact automated message again on Thursday, and again on Friday. I have been frantically trying to send them proof, namely a clear photo of the VN exit stamp in my passport dated June 1st. I thought all they needed to see was that my IP address was in Cambodia, but apparently not.
So now, here I sit on Friday, June 5th. I took a speeding tuk-tuk to the VN Embassy here in Phnom Penh this morning to literally plead for help. Then, I had to take another frantic return tuk-tuk ride in the afternoon after getting ANOTHER “please leave VN” email from Hanoi. We took yet another photo of my exit stamp and blasted it off to them.
The Phnom Penh Embassy finally told me that if Hanoi refuses me again, I need to come back to them with my physical passport and $80, and they will expedite it. Because of this mess, I’ve already had to extend my hotel stay through Thursday and haven’t even booked a return bus yet. I can’t. I have no idea how long I’ll be here. Riding in the tuk-tuk today, watching the city blur past, I seriously questioned myself: “Why am I doing this? What’s the point? Should I just stop?”
5. Slope Coffee
The Brew: Back on the horse. Iced Americano.
The Damage: 6,000 Riels (an incredibly reasonable $1.50).
“Nhân dân Phường Phạm Ngũ Lão bảo vệ môi trường” (People of Pham Ngu Lao Ward protect the environment). “Đảm bảo trật tự an toàn giao thông là trách nhiệm của mỗi người” (Ensuring traffic order and safety is everyone’s responsibility). “Ma túy hủy hoại cuộc sống – Hãy tránh xa” (Drugs ruin lives – Stay away). “Nói không với thuốc lá và thuốc lá điện tử” (Say no to cigarettes and e-cigarettes). “Chấp hành luật về trật tự an toàn giao thông…” (Comply with the law on traffic order and safety…). “Ma túy – Hiểm họa của cộng đồng. Không sử dụng ma túy dù chỉ một lần” (Drugs – A danger to the community. Do not use drugs even once). “Sách là bạn” (Books are friends).
The red sign over the gate reads Phước Lộc Thọ, which refers to the three gods of Fortune, Prosperity, and Longevity. The statue in the pink robe is Lady Buddha (Avalokiteshvara), or Quán Thế Âm Bồ Tát in Vietnamese.
The blue plaque says “Đại Bi Quan Thế Âm Bồ Tát” (The Great Compassionate Bodhisattva).
She is the most beloved figure in Southern Vietnamese Buddhism, seen as a protector who hears the cries of those in distress. You’ll find her at the entrance of many alleys to “guard” the residents living inside.
A large, ancient tree trunk has integrated right into the structure. In Saigon culture, old trees are often believed to house spirits, so instead of cutting them down during construction, people build around them and treat them with great respect.