SAIGON, VIETNAM: THE DEATH OF A BEAUTIFUL MISTAKE


I have spent over twenty years teaching people to speak English. Not type it into a box and let a machine rearrange it. Speak it. Out loud. With their mouths. With the wrong conjugation and the misplaced emphasis and the accent that makes “beach” sound like something else entirely and the laughter that follows when everyone in the room realizes what just happened. That laughter is where language lives. And I am watching it die.


Translation apps are killing language learning. I don’t mean they’re making it less popular. I mean they’re removing the reason to try. Why would you spend two years learning Vietnamese when you can hold up your phone and have the sentence appear in half a second? Why would you stumble through tones and embarrass yourself at a coffee stall when Google will do it for you, perfectly, silently, without the risk of looking stupid?
I’ll tell you why. Because looking stupid is the whole point.
When you try to speak someone’s language and you get it wrong, something happens that no app can replicate. The other person sees you trying. They see the effort. They see a human being who cared enough to sound like a fool in their language instead of staying comfortable in their own. And something opens. A door, a smile, a willingness to meet you halfway that didn’t exist thirty seconds ago. You didn’t say the sentence correctly. You said something better. You said, “I see you. Your language matters. You matter enough for me to embarrass myself.”
A phone says none of that. A phone says: I need information from you and here is the most efficient way to get it.
I’ve traveled to more than fifty countries. I don’t speak fifty languages. I don’t even speak five that well. But in every country I’ve ever been, I’ve learned something. The word for “thank you.” The word for “delicious.” The word for “coffee,” which is almost always some version of the same Arabic root, which means every time you order coffee in any language, you’re participating in a thousand-year-old chain of human trade and migration and you don’t even know it unless you bothered to learn the word.

Bui Vien Street on a Monday morning

In Saigon I’ve learned how to order variations of different coffees, for example: cà phê sữa đá (iced condensed milk coffee) and cảm ơn (thank you) and ngon (delicious) and xin chào (literally ‘please hello’) and how to tell a xe om driver I’d like to walk, and that may not seem like much, but it’s mine. I earned it. I said it wrong and got corrected and said it wrong again and got corrected again and now when I say ‘ngon’ to the coffee lady she nods like I’ve passed a small test and the coffee tastes better for it. Not because the word changed the flavor. Because the effort changed the relationship.


The proponents of translation apps will tell you they’re democratizing communication. Making travel accessible. Breaking down barriers. And they’re not wrong. A person who doesn’t speak a word of Vietnamese can now navigate Saigon, order food, get a cab, check into a hotel, and handle a medical emergency without learning a single syllable. That’s remarkable. That’s useful. That even saves lives in some cases.


But here’s what it costs.
It costs the cab ride where you learn that the driver has three kids and his favorite food is Bun Bo Hue and he was a tank driver on the day Saigon fell in 1975 and he laughs when you try to say his name correctly. You don’t get that through a screen. You get the destination. You don’t get the journey. (And the journey is what matters in the end…)


It costs the market interaction where the woman selling bananas teaches you the word for ripe (chín) and you teach her the English word and she repeats it back and you both stand there in the heat holding bananas and laughing at each other’s pronunciation and neither of you will remember the other’s name but both of you will remember that moment because it was real and human.


It costs the slow, cumulative, irreplaceable process of your brain rewiring itself to think in patterns that are not your own. That’s what language learning actually is. It’s not vocabulary and grammar. It’s the act of stepping outside your own cognitive framework and trying on someone else’s. It’s learning that Vietnamese has six tones and each one changes the meaning of a word and suddenly you understand something about precision and music and attention that you could never have understood from inside English alone. It’s learning that there’s no direct equivalent for “I” in Vietnamese because the pronoun changes depending on your age, gender, and relationship to the person you’re speaking to, and suddenly you understand something about Vietnamese social structure that no Wikipedia article could teach you. Tôi ~ neutral, formal, safe for strangers. Mình ~ casual, warm, among friends. Em ~ when speaking to someone older, shows respect Anh ~ used by an older male speaking to someone younger. Chị ~ used by an older female speaking to someone younger.


That’s what gets lost when the app does it for you. Not the words. The understanding.


I’m an ESL teacher watching the ground shift under my profession. I see a future where my students’ children don’t learn English because their earbuds translate in real time. I see a future where a CELTA certification means as much as a telegraph operator’s license. I see a future where the phrase “Do you speak English?” is replaced by the gesture of holding up a phone, which is not a question at all, but a statement: I don’t need to speak your language and you don’t need to speak mine and we can both pretend this is progress.
Maybe it is progress. Maybe the time people spent learning languages can now be spent curing diseases or writing poetry or solving climate change. Maybe freeing humanity from the burden of multilingualism is a net good. Maybe efficiency was always the goal and I’m just a woman on a plastic stool in Saigon who doesn’t want to accept that the world moved on.


But I don’t think so.
I think language is the last handmade thing. In a world of automation and algorithms and AI (and yes, I see the irony, I’m a creator of an ever-evolving book series about AI in education), language remains the one skill that requires you to be fully present, fully vulnerable, fully human in front of another fully human person. You cannot automate vulnerability. You cannot outsource the courage it takes to open your mouth and say something badly in someone else’s language and wait to see if they understand.


The apps give us the words. They don’t give us the trying.
And the trying was always the part that mattered.
I sat in a cafe in Saigon last week and felt the presence of a young woman hovering at my table for thirty seconds composing a sentence on her phone before showing me the screen. She never spoke. I never spoke. The transaction was completed. The receipt was returned. Nothing was lost except everything that makes two strangers in a room more than just two strangers in a room.
She didn’t learn the English for “May I take your receipt?” She’ll never need to. The app said it for her. And I’ll never really understand why she needed it back, LOL. And next week it’ll say something else. And the week after that. And eventually the idea that you would spend years building another language inside your brain, storing it in your mouth and your muscle memory and your dreams, will seem as quaint as writing letters by hand. I’m still a postcard writer, though. I will keep resisting for as long as possible.

I used my Vietnamese to get patches sewn onto my backpack, and in return, I was gifted with laughter and an Asian sweet potato.


I teach people to speak. That’s my life’s work. Not to communicate. To speak. There’s a difference, and the difference is the sound of your own voice doing something brave in a language that doesn’t belong to you, and the face of the person across from you softening when they realize you tried.
No app has ever made a face soften.
No screen has ever laughed at a mispronunciation and then poured you more coffee because the effort was enough. Or, given you a sweet potato for nothing, just that their eyes smiled when I attempted Vietnamese. Or so much free tea. “Sit here all day,” their eyes smile…because you respect me enough to attempt my language. My DIFFICULT language.


Learn the language. Any language. Even badly. Especially badly. The mistakes are where the magic lives, and the magic is disappearing one translated screen at a time.

25May26

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 STREET ART: PROPAGANDA AND GRAFFITI

Propaganda Art
Art on the Saigon River

May 2026

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA 🇰🇭: PRAYERS

Prayers
Smoking style
This is how they get painted…
Weekday Morning scene at a street café
Sunrise on a Sunday morning
Khmer architecture
A Playful Kitten at Wat Saravan

June 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: RIVERS AND CLOUDS OF CONTENTMENT

Pham Ngu Lao Hem (alley) at night
The Saigon River. Sông Sài Gòn.

It runs about 256 km from its source in Tay Ninh Province (near the Cambodian border) down through Ho Chi Minh City and empties into the Nha Be River, which then flows into the South China Sea. The stretch you’re seeing downtown runs along District 1 on the west bank and District 2 (Thu Duc) on the east bank.

The river is why Saigon exists. The Khmer settlement of Prey Nokor was built here because of the river. The French colonized it because the river gave them a deep-water port connecting to the South China Sea. During the war it was a major supply route. The fall of Saigon on April 30, 1975 included North Vietnamese naval forces coming up this river.

It gets hot 🥵 in the afternoons here. Really hot. 93 F and feels like 98 F…
The iconic image of a Xe Om driver on break in the afternoon.
The closeness, the pajamas, the contentment, of the Vietnamese.
Looks like a portal to heaven (view from Bui Thi Xuan in the morning)
Rainy season is coming and this is the sky before an afternoon rainstorm earlier this week.

May 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 STREET ART: ENVIRONMENT PROPAGANDA

22may26

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 STREET ART: CHILL

22may26

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 STREET ART: INDIGENOUS by ARTIST UNKNOWN

22may26

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 STREET ART: PROPAGANDA MURAL

22may26

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 STREET ART: BLOOM by YESSIOW & STIJN

📍 Co Giang

🇮🇩 Yessiow (born Yessi Nur Mulianawati) is an internationally recognized Indonesian mural artist and illustrator originally from Bali. Known for her bold, playful, and vibrant style, she uses her art to brighten public spaces and connect deeply with local communities around the world. 

🎨 In recognition of her impact on public art and community engagement, she was named to the Forbes 30 Under 30 Asia (Arts) list in 2024. 

🌴 Yessiow’s work is instantly recognizable for its distinct visual language, which blends her roots with contemporary street art:
Vibrant Tropical Palette: Growing up in Bali strongly influenced her use of bright, saturated colors and natural, organic shapes. 

💪 Representation and Diversity: Her murals frequently explore themes of women’s empowerment, body positivity, unity, and the celebration of diverse skin tones.

22may26

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: BIA CATS, BUILDINGS & POIGNANCY

Top of a Temple
35 Nguyễn Văn Tráng is one of the roughly 500 “old apartment buildings” (chung cư cũ) that define the architectural landscape of District 1.

1. Mid-Century Origins (1960s–1970s)

The building was constructed between 40 and 60 years ago, placing its origins in the era of the Republic of Vietnam (South Vietnam). At that time, Nguyễn Văn Tráng was part of a bustling residential and commercial zone near the Ben Thanh market.

• Design Philosophy: Unlike the ornate French colonial buildings, No. 35 reflects the modernist/brutalist leanings of that era—characterized by raw concrete, functional geometric lines, and open hallways designed to catch the breeze.

• The Materiality: It is noted for its “rough beauty,” featuring original đá rửa (washed stone) and traditional gạch bông (encaustic cement tiles) on the floors—materials that were once the standard for middle-class Saigonese living.

2. Post-1975 Transition

Following the events of 1975, many of these apartment buildings were reorganized. Large units were often subdivided into smaller residences to accommodate the city’s growing population. This created the “winding corridor” atmosphere you see today, where private life spills out into shared hallways with small kitchens and drying laundry.

3. The 2017 Revitalization

In 2017, the building gained a new life through the work of architect Nguyên Hạnh Nguyên.

• Preservation through Cleaning: Rather than tearing it down or covering it in modern panels, the team focused on deep-cleaning the old concrete and tiles.

• Contrast Architecture: They added glass elements to create a contrast between the “old rough” and “new smooth,” which made the building a magnet for the city’s creative community.

4. Present Day: A Creative Hub

Today, No. 35 is no longer just a residential block. It has become a vertical “hidden village” for Saigon’s youth and nomadic travelers:

• Hidden Cafes & Shops: It houses “secret” spots like Nhà Chung Cafe and the foreign language bookstore/cafe Pages of Passion.

• Nomadic Lodging: Higher floors are home to hostels and boutique stays like Onetel Saigon Panorama, offering a rooftop view of the skyline that contrasts sharply with the gritty, historical staircases.

It’s a great example of how Saigon’s history isn’t just found in museums, but in the layers of paint and concrete of the buildings where people still live, work, and drink coffee every day.

Travel Tip: If you head up to the higher floors, look for the original tile patterns; they are a direct link to the interior design trends of the 1960s Saigon middle class.

This is a building being constructed. Interesting style! I’m not sure what type of building it will be, commercial or residential, but I assume commercial. I’ll follow up on this once it’s completed, which is sooner than you think in Saigon.
Political graffiti is rare in Saigon, but this one is especially poignant. A writer is equating the reunification day of Vietnam in 1975 to the state of Palestine in modern day.
No one can carry as much on a motorbike than the Vietnamese. 🙇‍♀️
Bananas 🍌

May 2026