What was supposed to be a simple, breezy week-long border run to Phnom Penh has turned into a bureaucratic existential crisis. But hey, at least the coffee is keeping me going. Here is how my week tasted:
1. ENSO Cafe
The Vibe: I woke up way earlier than most sensible cafes care to open. After a morning stroll to the Independence Monument, I stumbled on this spot. I’m sitting outside under a roof with a nice breeze, learning a little Khmer: Some cafe trojeak moo-oy (an iced coffee, please).
The Damage: 12,300 Riels (about $3).
The Brew: It’s not even 7:30 AM yet and the heat from the sun is already intense. The cold brew is absolute perfection.
Socials: IG: @ensocafe
Language practice: Good Morning = Arun Suostei. Thank you = Orkūn.
2. 1987 Pang + Café
The Brew: I ordered an Iced Coconut Coffee. It’s notably less sweet than the ones you get across the border in Vietnam—and honestly, that’s probably a good thing.
The Vibe: The staff here were polite enough to actually ask, “Normal sweet or extra sweet?” In Vietnam, they don’t ask; they just drop the sugar bomb. I respect both approaches, but I told them, “Normal. The way you do it in Cambodia!” Et voilà, here we are.
Soundtrack of the moment: Charles Mingus – Myself When I’m Real 🎶
Socials: IG: @1987_pangcafe / TT: @1987.pang.and.cafe
3. Misterbrew Coffee (Norodom)
The Vibe: Upon walking in, the staff strategically deployed their most capable English speaker—a young, quaking guy whom I unintentionally accosted with a barrage of investigative questions about what I should order. Bless him, he walked me through an impressive explanation of three different specialty coffees. Together, we decided I should try the Café Samai Derm (the original/traditional style). Side note: Samai means “era” or “generation”.
The Brew: I got it because the barista told me it was his personal favorite and that he drinks it every single day. He wasn’t lying. It’s good. I’m happy.
Socials: IG: @misterbrew_kh / TT: @misterbrewcoffee
4. Brown Coffee
The Brew: Iced Americano.
The Reality Check: To be totally honest, I didn’t even finish it, and I was hardly conscious of what it tasted like. It was definitely good and strong, but my head was entirely somewhere else.
The Visa Intermission (Where things go sideways)
I am currently having serious visa issues. I thought this was going to be an easy run: leave Vietnam on a bus at 9:45 AM on Monday, June 1st, cross the border, apply for a new 90-day visa online, and just hang out and enjoy Phnom Penh for a week. I’d get my approved visa, be happy, and board a return bus on Sunday, June 7th.
The universe—or rather, the Vietnam Embassy in Hanoi—had completely different plans.
On Tuesday, they replied: “You must leave VN before applying for a visa.” But I did leave! I received that same exact automated message again on Thursday, and again on Friday. I have been frantically trying to send them proof, namely a clear photo of the VN exit stamp in my passport dated June 1st. I thought all they needed to see was that my IP address was in Cambodia, but apparently not.
So now, here I sit on Friday, June 5th. I took a speeding tuk-tuk to the VN Embassy here in Phnom Penh this morning to literally plead for help. Then, I had to take another frantic return tuk-tuk ride in the afternoon after getting ANOTHER “please leave VN” email from Hanoi. We took yet another photo of my exit stamp and blasted it off to them.
The Phnom Penh Embassy finally told me that if Hanoi refuses me again, I need to come back to them with my physical passport and $80, and they will expedite it. Because of this mess, I’ve already had to extend my hotel stay through Thursday and haven’t even booked a return bus yet. I can’t. I have no idea how long I’ll be here. Riding in the tuk-tuk today, watching the city blur past, I seriously questioned myself: “Why am I doing this? What’s the point? Should I just stop?”
5. Slope Coffee
The Brew: Back on the horse. Iced Americano.
The Damage: 6,000 Riels (an incredibly reasonable $1.50).
Socials: IG: @theslope_coffee / TT: @theslopecoffee
The coffee is cheap, the cafes are beautiful, but please, Hanoi… just approve my stamp so I can get back to Nam.
June 2026