BANGKOK, THAILAND 🇹🇭 STREET ART: TAGGING THE PROGRESS, Part 1.

Today I walked Bond Street in Nonthaburi again. Half-built towers. Stairwells open. Electrical lines hanging. The kind of buildings that are in-between; not abandoned, not alive yet.

And the graffiti.

The walls are getting hit while they’re still unfinished. Tags on bare cement. Quick spray jobs on columns that will absolutely be painted over in a few months. It’s not elaborate murals; more like presence. “I was here before this became something else.”

Here’s what I’ve noticed living in Thailand: space here isn’t neutral. It’s conscious. There are spirit houses outside condos, outside 7-Elevens, outside office parks. Offerings. Incense. Garlands. Even construction sites sometimes have their own small shrine tucked near the entrance. There’s an awareness that buildings aren’t just structures — they’re inhabited, protected, watched over.

So I have this theory — and I’ll say clearly, this is my observation, not a hard fact.

Writers hit buildings in progress because they know it’s temporary. The wall is unfinished. The paint isn’t final. The tag will disappear. It’s almost like tagging a draft version of the city. No one has spiritually claimed it yet. No tenants. No shrine out front. No blessing ceremony completed. It’s still in limbo.

But once a building is finished? Once it’s open, occupied, lit up at night? The graffiti drops off dramatically. Especially on places that visibly have shrines or offerings outside. That feels like a boundary. Not just legal — cultural. Spiritual.

I’ve also heard — again, this is just what people have told me — that some writers avoid certain abandoned hotels or houses that have gone into disrepair. Not because they respect the property owner. But because you don’t know what’s lingering there. Did someone die there? Is the space “heavy”? In Thailand, that question isn’t abstract. It’s real enough to influence behavior.

Whether that’s universally true or not, I don’t know. But walking these sites today, it felt clear: construction zones are fair game because they’re unfinished, and therefore unclaimed. Once the building settles into its role — once the spirits are invited in and the people move in — it becomes something else.

And personally? I’m drawn to this stage. I like the graffiti on raw concrete. It feels honest. Temporary city language on temporary surfaces. It’s the only moment the structure shows its bones and its interruptions at the same time.

Work crews set up makeshift ‘kitchens’ to make lunch on their breaks

A few months from now, the paint will cover it. The lobby will shine. The shrine will stand outside with fresh marigolds.

And the tags will be gone.

But for now, the building is still listening.

“Ghosts by day…”

February 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: Last Week in April ~ Coffee, Alleys, and the Small Lessons of Saigon

The last week of April, melting into the first week of May (today, as I write this, it is 89•F, feeling like 98•F with a warning of “excessive heat” *31•C, 37•C) felt like it should—hot, loud, imperfect, and somehow full of small moments that mattered.

In the middle of a bustling, chaotic market, I sat down and drank my first cà phê sữa đá of the week. Not in paper, not takeaway, but in a proper glass—the way I prefer it. There’s something about that glass that says we both understand the arrangement. I’m not rushing anywhere. I’m going to sit here, right at your cart, and drink this coffee the way it was meant to be drunk.

Street coffee in Saigon isn’t about convenience. It’s about presence.

Yoghurt Coffee

One of my favorite stops this week was for yoghurt coffee—cà phê sữa chua—down Phạm Ngũ Lão alley. That one always carries nostalgia for me because I spent so much time in that alley over twenty years ago at the Bread and Butter Bar. Walking back there now feels like stepping into an older version of myself.

Yoghurt coffee feels very Saigon to me—practical and inventive. Someone looked at coffee and thought, “Yes, but what if we made it colder, creamier, sharper?” And somehow it works. The bitterness of strong Vietnamese coffee against the cool tang of yoghurt—it shouldn’t, but it absolutely does. It tastes like adaptation. Like a city constantly reinventing itself without losing its center. I still prefer Coconut Coffee as my specialty coffee here.

In that same alley, the following day, I had my first negative vibe of my entire tenure so far.

I was sitting, drinking, taking a few exterior photos of the space around me—not bothering anyone—and the coffee lady gave me that unmistakable energy. You know the one. Suspicion mixed with disapproval, served without words. She didn’t approve of my picture-taking, not understanding that it was nothing intrusive, just exterior. If she only understood the series I’ve been doing, 😆.

She proceeded to stand in front of me and overtly take a photo of me, as though my mugshot would go up on her wall.

My first reaction was internal: Be zen. Don’t let her strange behavior affect your day.

And honestly, it became a beautiful little meditation. I reminded myself: “you are healthy, you are fortunate enough to be sitting in an alley in Saigon drinking coffee—let it go.” So I did. I even found myself grateful to her for the lesson. 🙇‍♀️

As for having my photo taken? I don’t mind at all. Daily life gets photographed here constantly. We are all part of someone else’s background story. Just a weird experience.

Cô Ba Thì Café
Writing so much this week

Met a lovely married couple sitting next to me today and ended up being gifted something I’d never tried before — Bánh Tráng Kẹo Mạch Nha 🥥🍯

A light rice cake topped with coconut shavings and a sticky, sweet malt syrup drizzle… simple and absolutely delicious.

They told me it was their childhood snack, something they hadn’t had in a long time, so today was a little treat for them, too.

Their phone translator helped us talk, and somehow that made it even better — strangers sharing stories, laughter, and food across languages.

For me, travel isn’t about the big sights. It’s a sidewalk table, kind people, and a sweet little rice cake I’ll never forget.

Saigon keeps giving me these moments. ❤️ Forever grateful.

Another reminder came at a corner draped in shade, protecting me from the intense heat already rising, near the intersection of Lê Lai and…honestly, I forgot the cross street, but I’ll find it again because the coffee lady there deserves remembering.

She got a kick out of my Vietnamese. 😆

I’ve realized something: if I begin with one or two practiced phrases—just enough to show respect—they’ll happily continue speaking Vietnamese the entire time I sit there. I nod, smile, and understand maybe twenty percent. They think I understand more than I do, but somehow that’s enough.

And maybe that’s the point.

Connection first. Perfect language later.

That first “Hit” from a Ca Phe Sua Da before the ice begins to melt…one of the things I live for.

She doesn’t talk much, which I like. Coffee ladies understand the assignment. They give you space to sit quietly, to read, to write, to simply be. Sometimes she brings an extra cup of tea without a word. That kind of kindness says more than conversation.

Reunification Day brought me to TABAC on Phạm Ngũ Lão for a straight black cà phê đen đá and some quiet writing. Saigon during holidays has its own rhythm—reflective, but still moving.

Saigon moves in its own way. I’m learning to be comfortable moving in my own way. The daily lessons from the coffee help…

April 2026

BANGKOK, THAILAND 🇹🇭 STREET ART: FALLING LEAVES 🍂

February 2026

BANGKOK, THAILAND 🇹🇭 STREET ART: ABANDONED IN NONTHABURI

Abandoned building in Nonthaburi. It looked like some kind of barracks. I think there is a military base nearby.

February 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: FOOD IN APRIL

Gỏi cuốn

Gỏi cuốn — fresh rice paper rolls packed with vermicelli, herbs, lettuce, and your choice of shrimp, pork, or both. Mine had both. No frying, no fuss. Just clean, bright flavors wrapped tight and served with peanut dipping sauce. Vietnam in one bite.

Bún thịt nướng

Bún thịt nướng — rice vermicelli noodles topped with smoky chargrilled pork, crisp bean sprouts, fresh herbs, crushed peanuts, and a splash of nước chấm fish sauce dressing. Cold noodles, hot meat, everything in between. Saigon in a bowl.

My favorite: Cơm tấm sườn

Cơm tấm sườn — broken rice topped with a chargrilled pork chop, served with a fried egg, shredded pork skin, cucumber, pickled vegetables, and a pool of sweet fish sauce on the side. Humble ingredients, serious flavor. The dish Saigon wakes up to every morning.

Eating it almost on the daily…
Steak and Cheese Bánh mì at Banh Mi Ut Thuong 📍
28/11A Tôn Thất Tùng, P. Bến Thành, Quận 1
Ham and Cheese Melt with Fries at Big Boss Bistro 📍
45 Trần Hưng Đạo, Phường Nguyễn Thái Bình, Quận 1
“Little Miss Piggy” – a delicious panini packed with avocado, chicken, bacon, and lettuce at The Hungry Pig Café 📍
40/24 Bùi Viện, Phường Phạm Ngũ Lão, Quận 1
Bánh Tráng Kẹo Mạch Nha 🥥🍯

Bánh Tráng Kẹo Mạch Nha – A light rice cake topped with coconut shavings and a sticky, sweet malt syrup drizzle.

April 2026

BANGKOK, THAILAND: IT’S NOT THAT THIS PLACE IS PERFECT…

There was a time quite recently, where I was moving through the world expecting impact—braced shoulders, narrowed trust, locked jaw, a quiet readiness for disappointment. Thailand has been soft about undoing that. No big revelations.

Just daily evidence: smiles offered without motive, acknowledgements that don’t demand conversation, warmth that isn’t transactional. It’s not that this place is perfect—it’s that it’s patient. And somehow, that patience has been enough to let a little light back in.

FEBRUARY 2026

BANGKOK, THAILAND 🇹🇭 STREET ART: BIG D

👨‍🎨 BIGDEL

February 2026

BANGKOK, THAILAND 🇹🇭 STREET ART: OPINIONS ABOUT EDUCATION ON THE WALL…

This wall says kindergarten and shit in the same breath.
A dog pees on a heart/diamond. A body slips downward. Numbers float without explanation.
Nothing here is subtle—and that’s the point.
Thai street art loves childlike language when it wants to insult power.
Not poetic. Not symbolic. Blunt. Bodily. Embarrassing.
The vocabulary of early childhood turned into a verdict on what we’re taught from the start.
If innocence is the story institutions tell themselves,
this wall replies with reality:
what’s labeled pure is already treated like waste.
Bangkok doesn’t dress critique up.
It hands it back to you exactly as it was given—
crude, public, unavoidable.
🔴 Red text
อนุบาล
Translation:
Kindergarten
This word is very clear and standard Thai. It refers specifically to pre-school / early childhood education.

🔵 Blue text
ขี้ ขี้
Translation:
Poop, poop
(or more naturally: “pooping” / “shit”, repeated for emphasis)


1feb26

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: THIS WEEK IN COFFEE ~ MANGO 🥭 DELIGHT

At a café on Phạm Ngũ Lão, the experiment of the week. Mango and coffee may sound like a bad decision until the first sip proves otherwise.

Sweet fruit cream against the dark bitterness of robusta, tropical and strange and somehow perfect for Saigon. It shouldn’t work, but it does. Like most things here.

This week tasted like crushed ice, condensed milk, and slow mornings under cloudy skies.

It started with the neighborhood coffee lady. No grand introduction, just small gestures, quiet smiles. In Saigon, coffee often begins not with the drink, but with the person handing it to you.

Then came the can of Nescafé Café Việt, coffee in its simplest grab-and-go form. Not romantic, maybe, but honest. Sweet, strong, practical. Feeling nostalgic for Japanese vending machines at times like these.

The darkest cà phê sữa đá of the week was on Nguyễn Trãi. Poured almost backwards—thick black coffee settling first, and then the condensed milk was poured on top.

The coffee lady taught me to do the two-handed shake to force the condensed milk to filter throughout the cup.
A “hit” like no other!

Near Bến Thành Market, under a cloudy sky, the city moved in its usual way: scooters weaving, vendors calling, tourists pausing for photos, and somewhere in the middle of it all, another red plastic table and stool waiting for another coffee.

Back in my neighborhood, hẻm coffee reminded me why street coffee always wins. Crushed ice, quiet workers eating breakfast before the day really begins. Just the soft clatter of spoons against glasses and the hum of a city waking up.

This week in coffee was about noticing more rituals around it—the lady who questions my passion until she sees me grab a red stool with no intention of getting my coffee to go, the men and women eating their pre-work breakfasts in silence, the cafés hidden in alleys, the cloudy mornings near markets, and the accidental brilliance of mango and espresso.

I know I say some version of this every week, but it’s true. In Saigon, coffee is never just coffee.

It is routine.
It is geography.
It is conversation.
It is the city itself.

April 2026

BANGKOK, THAILAND 🇹🇭: NOMADISM

Bangkok reminding me—again—that endings are just another form of beginning. Sunset in Nonthaburi.

Today I went to immigration to get a one-month visa extension.

Not because I love paperwork.

Not because I’ve made a careful plan.

Because I don’t know where I’m going next.

People like to imagine nomadism as motion—airports, train windows, stamps filling up passports. But the truth is that a lot of this life is waiting rooms. Plastic chairs. Fluorescent lights. A number printed on a slip of paper that tells me when it’s my turn to explain myself.

A one-month extension is a pause button.

A delay tactic.

A small bureaucratic way of saying: I’m not done yet, but I don’t know what comes after.

I’ve been doing this long enough to recognize the pattern. When I’m certain, I don’t hesitate. I buy the ticket. I leave. When I’m not, I stall. I buy time. I let the city keep speaking to me while I listen harder.

This isn’t fear. It’s not indecision in the way people mean it. It’s attentiveness.

I’ve learned—sometimes the hard way—that leaving too early is just as reckless as staying too long. Cities don’t always announce when they’re finished with me. Sometimes they taper off. Sometimes they stop showing me anything new and start showing me myself instead.

That’s usually the sign.

Right now, I’m in between. Between chapters. Between exits. Between the version of myself that arrived and the one that hasn’t decided where to land next.

The immigration office doesn’t care about any of this, of course. They care about copies. Signatures. Fees. Dates that line up neatly in boxes.

So I paid for thirty more days.

Thirty days to walk without mapping routes.

Thirty days to notice walls, not landmarks.

Thirty days to keep photographing things that won’t make sense until much later.

People sometimes ask if this life gets tiring. It does—but not in the way they think. The exhaustion isn’t from movement. It’s from choosing. Every extension quietly closes other doors.

But I’ve also learned this: rushing clarity never works. The next place doesn’t reveal itself under pressure. It shows up when you’re paying attention to where you already are.

So this month isn’t about planning.

It’s about listening.

To the streets.

To the art that’s already peeling.

To the parts of myself that surface only when I stop asking, What’s next?

If nothing else, today confirmed one thing.

I’m not finished yet.

And for now, that’s enough.

4february2026