SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: NGUYEN VAN HAO BUILDING

Nguyen Van Hao Building, sometimes called Saigon’s Art Deco Flatiron. It’s one of the most important pre-war commercial buildings still standing in the city.

The story: Nguyen Van Hao was born in 1890 in Tra Vinh Province, came to Saigon poor, started as an apprentice at his stepbrother’s auto parts shop. He saved money, opened his own automobile accessory store at 19-21 Boulevard Gallieni (now Tran Hung Dao), and became one of the wealthiest businessmen in Saigon by the 1920s and 30s. He made his fortune off the growing demand for cars and long-distance travel across the Mekong Delta.

He commissioned this building in the late 1920s. Construction finished in 1937. It was both his family residence and his business offices. The building became known as the “Nguyen Van Hao Garage” because he displayed famous automobile brands there. He also built a petrol station nearby and financed the Nguyen Van Hao Theater on the corner of Tran Hung Dao and De Tham (now the HCMC Drama Theater), which became one of Saigon’s most important performance venues. In 1945, that theater was where the public meeting was held that launched the August Revolution.

The building itself sits at the triangular junction of Tran Hung Dao, Ky Con, and Yersin streets, right across from Ben Thanh Market. It’s a wedge-shaped Art Deco flatiron, about 100 years old now, with beautiful curved lines.

Hao left Saigon in 1966 after his wife died, returned to Tra Vinh, and left the building to his son. It’s been decaying for decades. There have been reports of renovation efforts, and some Airbnb apartments have operated inside it.

Historical Photo, Photographer and Date unknown

April2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 STREET ART: ⭐️

Anthony Bourdain:
“Vietnam. It grabs you and doesn’t let you go. Once you love it, you love it forever.”

April 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM: FOR THE PEACE OF LIFE

“Vì bình yên cuộc sống”, which translates to “For the peace of life.”

The group represents different branches of public service and society—you can spot police/military figures, a civilian worker, an older woman (likely symbolizing the public or elders), and a child.

Reflects post-war Vietnam’s emphasis on:

* Collective unity over individual heroism
* Gratitude toward those who maintain public order
* The idea that peace is active, not passive—it’s built and protected

April 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM: Thích Quảng Đức

This is a statue of Thích Quảng Đức, one of the most powerful and haunting figures in modern Vietnamese history.

He was a Buddhist monk who, in 1963, set himself on fire in the middle of a busy Saigon intersection to protest the persecution of Buddhists by the South Vietnamese government under Ngô Đình Diệm. The act shocked the world and became a defining image of moral resistance.

The sculpture itself is deeply symbolic:

* The flame-like shapes rising around him represent both the fire of his self-immolation and spiritual transcendence.

* His calm, meditative expression reflects the fact that witnesses said he did not move or cry out during the act.

* The offering flowers and incense at the base show ongoing respect—this is not just art, it’s an active memorial.

In this June 11, 1963 file photo, one of a series taken by then AP Saigon correspondent Malcom Browne, Thich Quang Duc, a Buddhist monk, burns himself to death on a Saigon street to protest alleged persecution of Buddhists by the South Vietnamese government. Browne, acclaimed for his trenchant reporting of the Vietnam War and a photo of a Buddhist monk’s suicide by fire that shocked the Kennedy White House into a critical policy re-evaluation. (AP Photo/Malcolm Browne)

Quảng Đức’s body was re-cremated during the funeral, but his heart supposedly remained intact and did not burn.

Quảng Đức’s last words before his death were documented in a letter he had left:

“Before closing my eyes and moving towards the vision of the Buddha, I respectfully plead to President Ngô Đình Diệm to take a mind of compassion towards the people of the nation and implement religious equality to maintain the strength of the homeland eternally. I call the venerables, reverends, members of the sangha and the lay Buddhists to organize in solidarity to make sacrifices to protect Buddhism.”

April 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 GRAFFITI: THUMBS 👍 UP

April 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: SECRET WEAPON BUNKER

Secret Weapon Bunker
270 Võ Văn Tần
District 3
Ho Chi Minh City
Vietnam

In 1966 during the Vietnam War (The American War), Tran Van Lai, a politician, bought a house at 287/70 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Road in District 3 in Saigon.

Over the next few months, he constructed a secret cellar without the knowledge of his family. He used the secret hideaway to store weapons that would be used in the 1968 attack on the Royal Palace. This event was better known as the Tet Offensive.

To avoid suspicion, he put all the dirt collected from digging the bunker into boxes and disposed of them using his car at night. The weapons were also brought in and out in a similar manner, hidden in bamboo cases or rugs. Weapons include TNT, C4 explosives, detonators, rocket launchers, guns, and hand grenades.

Today, the house is a tiny museum and a witness to an important part of Vietnamese history. It was classified as a historical, cultural relic in 1986 by the Ministry of Culture. The coffee shop next door, Cà Phê Đỗ Phủ, also contains secret passages and is owned by Tran Vu Binh, the son of Van Lai.
(atlasobscura)

13april26

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: THE TRAP OF NOSTALGIA

I carried Saigon in my head for sixteen years like a photograph I never updated. The motorbikes were there. The heat was there. The French buildings and the coffee and the chaos were all there, perfectly preserved in the version of the city I left in 2010. I didn’t realize I’d been treating a living place like a souvenir.

When you leave somewhere, it stops. For you. The clock freezes on the last thing you saw, the last corner you turned, the last bowl of pho you ate before you got on the plane. And your brain files it away under “Saigon” and closes the drawer and every time you think about it, you open the same drawer and find the same city, unchanged, waiting.

I came back expecting reunion. What I got was introduction. This is not the city I left. This is a city that kept going after I stopped watching. The graffiti that didn’t exist before is everywhere now. The 7-Eleven that wasn’t here is struggling on the corner. The kids skating Dong Khoi weren’t born when I was last here. Notre Dame is wrapped in scaffolding. The backpacker street got louder and the alleys got tagged and the skyline got taller.

And the thing is, I did the same thing. I’m not the person who was here in 2010, either. I’ve lived in countries that didn’t exist on my radar back then. I’ve written books that weren’t even ideas. I’ve lost people and found people and become someone the 2010 version of me wouldn’t entirely recognize. I changed too. I just didn’t notice because I was inside the change.

That’s the trap of nostalgia. It’s not that you miss a place. It’s that you miss the version of yourself that was in it. You go back expecting to find both, and instead you find a stranger standing in a city full of strangers, all of whom have been busy living while you were busy remembering.

I get it now. Places are not museums. They don’t owe you the version you left behind. They don’t preserve themselves for your return. They keep building, keep painting, keep tearing down and starting over, because that’s what living things do. The Saigon I remembered doesn’t exist. But the Saigon that does exist is louder, messier, more complicated, and more alive than anything my memory could hold.

I didn’t lose the old city. I just finally showed up for the new one.

April 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 STREET ART: VÌ MỘT MÔI TRƯỜNG XANH

Vietnamese community propaganda, or tranh cổ động.

*While the word “propaganda” often carries a heavy political weight in the West, in Vietnam, it is frequently used by local wards (phường) for social mobilization and civic education.

“VÌ MỘT MÔI TRƯỜNG XANH”
(For a Green Environment)

😆 The wonderful irony: a mural pleading for a green environment serves as a shelf for a plastic takeaway cup of trà tắc (kumquat tea).

9april26
Saigon, Vietnam 🇻🇳

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 STREET ART: BLUE DRAGON 🐉

4april2026

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA 🇰🇭 FOOD: BAGEL ME THIS

When you haven’t had a bagel in a minute…

June 2026