SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: The Quiet Strength of Saigon’s Street Sellers

The West may come here and see “poverty,” but Saigon is far from poor.

People pass a woman in a conical hat, wearing pyjamas, balancing her day on two shoulders—selling sunglasses, lighters, cigarettes, lottery tickets, fruit, or iced coffee under the heat of a city that never seems to slow down. Some tourists see struggle. I see strength.

What I truly see is a woman with the resilience of ten men.

She wakes before the city fully opens its eyes. Before the office workers rush for coffee, before motorbikes flood the streets, she is already there—arranging her goods, preparing herself for another long day of bargaining, smiling, surviving.

She has likely raised children. Maybe now she helps raise grandchildren. She has known humiliation, rejection, and the thousand small dismissals that come with selling on the street—people waving her away, ignoring her existence, reducing her to background scenery.

But she remains.

There is a kind of inner fortitude there that cannot be taught in therapy sessions or self-help books. It is forged through necessity. Through hunger. Through family. Through knowing that whether she feels tired or not, the day still demands something from her.

And still, she shows up.

She hears “no” a hundred times a day. Sometimes with kindness, often without it. Yet the constant rejection doesn’t hollow her out. It sharpens her. She adjusts, adapts, keeps moving. She survives.

Together, these women are impenetrable.

There is an invisible sisterhood on these streets—a quiet understanding between vendors, mothers, grandmothers, and workers who have built lives out of persistence. They know how to endure. They know how to stretch one good day across three bad ones. They know how to laugh in the middle of hardship.

That is wealth.

Not the kind measured in bank accounts or luxury hotels, but the kind measured in endurance, dignity, and the refusal to collapse.

She is Vietnamese.

And just as this country endured war, occupation, division, and reinvention, she wins her own daily battles with the same stubborn grace. History lives in ordinary people more than monuments. Sometimes it wears a nón lá and offers you a lighter at a street corner.

Saigon teaches this lesson quietly: resilience is not loud.

It doesn’t announce itself.

It sits on a plastic stool by the roadside.

It pours coffee.

It sells fruit.

It smiles anyway.

And if you pay attention, you realize you are not looking at poverty.

You are looking at power.

April 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 FOOD: BAGEL’ED AGAIN! The Month of June 2026

June 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM: MAYBE DESTINY DOESN’T ARRIVE ALL AT ONCE

I’ve been thinking a lot lately about how I’m living my life.
I wake up when I want to. I do my tai chi, stretch, squat, lunge—just enough to remind my body that it’s still carrying me through this strange and beautiful life. Then I step outside and head in whichever direction feels right that morning.
No strict plan. No rigid schedule. Just walking toward a new coffee stand I haven’t tried yet.
The funny thing is, I could probably do this for the next twenty years and still never visit every little street-side coffee place in Saigon. That thought makes me smile. It means there is always something left to discover.

Enjoying a Trappistes Rochefort 10 at Beer & Wine Collection, 31 Cong Quynh

The streets are getting ready for Reunification Day, April 30 – Flags cover the city

I’m beginning to accept that every day can feel like both a Sunday and a Friday.
I don’t live by the old rhythm of the seven-day week anymore. I don’t wake up groaning, “I hate Mondays,” or dragging myself through Wednesday thinking, “Just two more days until the weekend.”
No.
Every day holds the slowness and beauty of a Sunday, and at the same time, the anticipatory joy of a Friday. There’s freedom in that. There’s peace in that.
And honestly, I’m still learning how to accept it without guilt.
There’s that old voice sometimes—the one that whispers I should have a more “regular” job, that I should be making more money, that I should be following some standard path that everyone else seems to understand.
But lately, I’ve been trying to replace that voice with gratitude.
Instead of focusing on what I could be making, I think about the abundance I already have. Time. Freedom. Movement. Quiet mornings. Conversations with strangers over coffee. The ability to sit outside at 8 a.m., 4 p.m., or 10 p.m. and simply exist.

Xe Om drivers always trying to give me a ride when I prefer walking. So, I say: “Cảm ơn, Tôi muốn đi bộ thôi.” (Thank you, I really want to walk.)

The universe has given me this life for a reason.
And today, I feel ready to accept it.
No fear. No guilt. No shame.
Just acknowledgment.
Just gratitude.
Just the understanding that my life is this way for a reason, and maybe my job is not to fight it, but to live it fully—to step into it wholeheartedly and trust that it is leading somewhere meaningful.
In the same way, every hour feels like happy hour.
Whether it’s 8 in the morning or 10 at night, my life allows me the freedom to enjoy a chilled beer if the moment feels right. And whenever I see a Trappist ale sitting quietly outside the country where it was brewed, my heart skips a beat a little.

Because sometimes happiness is big and dramatic.
And sometimes it’s just finding the right coffee stand, taking the long way home, and realizing that the life I thought looked unconventional is actually the one that fits me best.
Maybe destiny doesn’t arrive all at once.
Maybe it looks like a slow walk through the city, a plastic stool on the sidewalk, strong Vietnamese coffee, and the quiet realization that I am already exactly where I need to be.

Zen

April 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: PROUD TO BE VIETNAMESE

“A people who have courageously opposed French domination for more than eighty years, a people who have fought side by side with the Allies against the Fascists during these last years, such a people must be free and independent.” – Ho Chi Minh
Art Deco–style façade at 16–18–20 Thủ Khoa Huân Street.
This façade strongly suggests it was built in the late French colonial period, probably around the 1930s to early 1940s, during the height of Saigon’s Art Deco boom.
This style was heavily influenced by Paris, Shanghai, and American theater architecture of the era.
Proud to be Vietnamese

April 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: SLEEP

These men work brutal hours in brutal heat for money that would make a Westerner cry. But the sleep itself is not sad. The sleep is the one moment in the day that belongs to them. Nobody is paying for it. Nobody is timing it. Nobody is asking them to deliver something or drive somewhere or fix something. For ten minutes or an hour, the man and the motorbike are still, and the city flows around them.
Built: ~1955–1965 (most likely around early 1960s)
📍 Lý Tự Trọng Street, was heavily developed during the 1950s–60s as Saigon expanded into a modern capital.
After reunification in 1975, this building was eventually used by the hát bội troupe (established 1977).
Hát bội is Vietnam’s traditional opera:
painted faces, symbolic acting, historical drama, and big moral storytelling.

April 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 FOOD: BáNH Mì HUỳNH HOA

Homemade Salted Butter Banh Mi – So thick, it looks like cheese!

Bánh Mì Huỳnh Hoa. The most famous banh mi in Saigon. Possibly in all of Vietnam.

📍26 Le Thi Rieng, District 1.


🥖 I got one with the homemade salted butter. I’m not a fan of the paté, so I got a really basic one. But, it was still delicious. The one that everyone stands in line for is heavy and includes 13 ingredients.

Been open 35+ years. Founded by Mrs. Le Kim Hoa, whose father ran a street stall near the Phu Dong roundabout selling bread.

Every single day, there are lines of locals and tourists stretching out onto the road.

“Every banh mi has 13 ingredients: pate, sausage, Vietnamese sausages, butter, ham, pork floss, char siu, herbs, pickled carrot and radish, cucumber, chili, mayo, and bread that’s crusty outside and pillowy inside. It’s the heaviest banh mi you’ll ever hold.“

April 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: RED PLASTIC CHAIRS AND STOOLS – ICONIC

Everything in Saigon happens on a red plastic chair or stool.
In Vietnam red means luck and happiness and also “sit here, the pho is ready.” 😊

I’ve eaten the best meals of my life on red plastic chairs. Com tam suon, hunched over broken rice and grilled pork, green onion oil dripping off the spoon, my knees pressed against a table😆.

Ca phe sua da sweating in a glass, sitting so low to the ground, watching motorbikes pass.
Nobody looks comfortable on a red plastic chair. Everybody looks at home.

April 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: A WEEK (AND THEN SOME) IN COFFEE

Back in Vietnam after almost two weeks in Cambodia, and the first thing I want is a cup in my hand and a chair in the shade. So here it is: a week in coffee, one cup at a time.

Cà Phê Trứng 3T — 10 Sương Nguyệt Ánh
I had been wanting to try this place for months, and I finally walked in. Pleasantly surprised is putting it mildly, because the coffee turned out to be buy one, get one free! Any coffee on the menu. I tried a salted egg coffee for the first time and then a cà phê sữa đá to follow, and they bring you a small teapot of trà đá on the side too. 60K VND, about $2.28, for all of that.

Cà Rê Café — 35 Nguyễn Văn Tráng
My favourite mint green building. I had a salted creamy coffee here for 55K VND, around $2.09. All of these cafés and shops are tucked into old apartments, which is exactly why they have such eclectic, lived-in vibes.

Highlands Coffee — Coconut Americano (Americano Nước Dừa)
I will be honest about this one. It tasted like a strong black coffee with a drop of coconut water stirred in. Not the specialty coconut coffee with milk and sugar I had in my head. Fine, but not the thing. And my health is better for it. 😂

Trung Nguyên E-Coffee — Bùi Thị Xuân
The best salted coffee I have had in Saigon, full stop. 35K VND, about $1.33. Modern, open air, free wifi, the kind of place that looks like the coffee should cost a fortune. It doesn’t.

Sipfé — Peanut Butter Coffee!
A flashback to the day before I left for Cambodia. I was wandering the streets and passed a café with Peanut Butter Coffee right there on the menu. “Note to self.” So, I came back to give it a proper try, 85K, and it was so good!

Highlands Coffee — Phạm Ngũ Lão
35K. Not a destination so much as a survival decision. It has been too hot for the street stands lately, and the need to duck into an air-conditioned café gets a little overwhelming.

Tào Florist (Tào Café)
Cà phê sữa đá for 30K. Very small and somehow spacious at the same time, with low tables and chairs spilling inside and out. The owner was attentive and kind, which is half of why I would go back.

The husband-and-wife stand — a hẻm off Lê Thị Riêng – 17K, about 65 cents, for a cà phê sữa đá takeaway, run by a man and his wife in an alley off Lê Thị Riêng. The cheapest one around, and I love how they make it. Condensed milk at the bottom of the cup, half a shot of espresso, stirred, then ice, then the other half of the espresso poured over the top. That first sip lands hard! And I love that. 😊

Wanting a cool place to sit and get out of the heat, I headed out thinking I was hunting for a new café. At the end of Bùi Viện I saw Phúc Long, went inside, and then stopped short at 35K for a cà phê sữa đá when I know it is better on the street and 20K. A café in this city is only worth it to me if I am there for a specialty coffee or a matcha. Otherwise, stay on the streets and support the locals. And I still get to sit in the shade and read my book for as long as I want.

June 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 STREET ART: 🐰

April 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 STREET ART: PINK FLOWERS 🌺

April 2026