SAIGON, VIETNAM: THE DEATH OF A BEAUTIFUL MISTAKE


I have spent over twenty years teaching people to speak English. Not type it into a box and let a machine rearrange it. Speak it. Out loud. With their mouths. With the wrong conjugation and the misplaced emphasis and the accent that makes “beach” sound like something else entirely and the laughter that follows when everyone in the room realizes what just happened. That laughter is where language lives. And I am watching it die.


Translation apps are killing language learning. I don’t mean they’re making it less popular. I mean they’re removing the reason to try. Why would you spend two years learning Vietnamese when you can hold up your phone and have the sentence appear in half a second? Why would you stumble through tones and embarrass yourself at a coffee stall when Google will do it for you, perfectly, silently, without the risk of looking stupid?
I’ll tell you why. Because looking stupid is the whole point.
When you try to speak someone’s language and you get it wrong, something happens that no app can replicate. The other person sees you trying. They see the effort. They see a human being who cared enough to sound like a fool in their language instead of staying comfortable in their own. And something opens. A door, a smile, a willingness to meet you halfway that didn’t exist thirty seconds ago. You didn’t say the sentence correctly. You said something better. You said, “I see you. Your language matters. You matter enough for me to embarrass myself.”
A phone says none of that. A phone says: I need information from you and here is the most efficient way to get it.
I’ve traveled to more than fifty countries. I don’t speak fifty languages. I don’t even speak five that well. But in every country I’ve ever been, I’ve learned something. The word for “thank you.” The word for “delicious.” The word for “coffee,” which is almost always some version of the same Arabic root, which means every time you order coffee in any language, you’re participating in a thousand-year-old chain of human trade and migration and you don’t even know it unless you bothered to learn the word.

Bui Vien Street on a Monday morning

In Saigon I’ve learned how to order variations of different coffees, for example: cà phê sữa đá (iced condensed milk coffee) and cảm ơn (thank you) and ngon (delicious) and xin chào (literally ‘please hello’) and how to tell a xe om driver I’d like to walk, and that may not seem like much, but it’s mine. I earned it. I said it wrong and got corrected and said it wrong again and got corrected again and now when I say ‘ngon’ to the coffee lady she nods like I’ve passed a small test and the coffee tastes better for it. Not because the word changed the flavor. Because the effort changed the relationship.


The proponents of translation apps will tell you they’re democratizing communication. Making travel accessible. Breaking down barriers. And they’re not wrong. A person who doesn’t speak a word of Vietnamese can now navigate Saigon, order food, get a cab, check into a hotel, and handle a medical emergency without learning a single syllable. That’s remarkable. That’s useful. That even saves lives in some cases.


But here’s what it costs.
It costs the cab ride where you learn that the driver has three kids and his favorite food is Bun Bo Hue and he was a tank driver on the day Saigon fell in 1975 and he laughs when you try to say his name correctly. You don’t get that through a screen. You get the destination. You don’t get the journey. (And the journey is what matters in the end…)


It costs the market interaction where the woman selling bananas teaches you the word for ripe (chín) and you teach her the English word and she repeats it back and you both stand there in the heat holding bananas and laughing at each other’s pronunciation and neither of you will remember the other’s name but both of you will remember that moment because it was real and human.


It costs the slow, cumulative, irreplaceable process of your brain rewiring itself to think in patterns that are not your own. That’s what language learning actually is. It’s not vocabulary and grammar. It’s the act of stepping outside your own cognitive framework and trying on someone else’s. It’s learning that Vietnamese has six tones and each one changes the meaning of a word and suddenly you understand something about precision and music and attention that you could never have understood from inside English alone. It’s learning that there’s no direct equivalent for “I” in Vietnamese because the pronoun changes depending on your age, gender, and relationship to the person you’re speaking to, and suddenly you understand something about Vietnamese social structure that no Wikipedia article could teach you. Tôi ~ neutral, formal, safe for strangers. Mình ~ casual, warm, among friends. Em ~ when speaking to someone older, shows respect Anh ~ used by an older male speaking to someone younger. Chị ~ used by an older female speaking to someone younger.


That’s what gets lost when the app does it for you. Not the words. The understanding.


I’m an ESL teacher watching the ground shift under my profession. I see a future where my students’ children don’t learn English because their earbuds translate in real time. I see a future where a CELTA certification means as much as a telegraph operator’s license. I see a future where the phrase “Do you speak English?” is replaced by the gesture of holding up a phone, which is not a question at all, but a statement: I don’t need to speak your language and you don’t need to speak mine and we can both pretend this is progress.
Maybe it is progress. Maybe the time people spent learning languages can now be spent curing diseases or writing poetry or solving climate change. Maybe freeing humanity from the burden of multilingualism is a net good. Maybe efficiency was always the goal and I’m just a woman on a plastic stool in Saigon who doesn’t want to accept that the world moved on.


But I don’t think so.
I think language is the last handmade thing. In a world of automation and algorithms and AI (and yes, I see the irony, I’m a creator of an ever-evolving book series about AI in education), language remains the one skill that requires you to be fully present, fully vulnerable, fully human in front of another fully human person. You cannot automate vulnerability. You cannot outsource the courage it takes to open your mouth and say something badly in someone else’s language and wait to see if they understand.


The apps give us the words. They don’t give us the trying.
And the trying was always the part that mattered.
I sat in a cafe in Saigon last week and felt the presence of a young woman hovering at my table for thirty seconds composing a sentence on her phone before showing me the screen. She never spoke. I never spoke. The transaction was completed. The receipt was returned. Nothing was lost except everything that makes two strangers in a room more than just two strangers in a room.
She didn’t learn the English for “May I take your receipt?” She’ll never need to. The app said it for her. And I’ll never really understand why she needed it back, LOL. And next week it’ll say something else. And the week after that. And eventually the idea that you would spend years building another language inside your brain, storing it in your mouth and your muscle memory and your dreams, will seem as quaint as writing letters by hand. I’m still a postcard writer, though. I will keep resisting for as long as possible.

I used my Vietnamese to get patches sewn onto my backpack, and in return, I was gifted with laughter and an Asian sweet potato.


I teach people to speak. That’s my life’s work. Not to communicate. To speak. There’s a difference, and the difference is the sound of your own voice doing something brave in a language that doesn’t belong to you, and the face of the person across from you softening when they realize you tried.
No app has ever made a face soften.
No screen has ever laughed at a mispronunciation and then poured you more coffee because the effort was enough. Or, given you a sweet potato for nothing, just that their eyes smiled when I attempted Vietnamese. Or so much free tea. “Sit here all day,” their eyes smile…because you respect me enough to attempt my language. My DIFFICULT language.


Learn the language. Any language. Even badly. Especially badly. The mistakes are where the magic lives, and the magic is disappearing one translated screen at a time.

25May26

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 STREET ART: PROPAGANDA AND GRAFFITI

Propaganda Art
Art on the Saigon River

May 2026

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA 🇰🇭: PRAYERS

Prayers
Smoking style
This is how they get painted…
Weekday Morning scene at a street café
Sunrise on a Sunday morning
Khmer architecture
A Playful Kitten at Wat Saravan

June 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: RIVERS AND CLOUDS OF CONTENTMENT

Pham Ngu Lao Hem (alley) at night
The Saigon River. Sông Sài Gòn.

It runs about 256 km from its source in Tay Ninh Province (near the Cambodian border) down through Ho Chi Minh City and empties into the Nha Be River, which then flows into the South China Sea. The stretch you’re seeing downtown runs along District 1 on the west bank and District 2 (Thu Duc) on the east bank.

The river is why Saigon exists. The Khmer settlement of Prey Nokor was built here because of the river. The French colonized it because the river gave them a deep-water port connecting to the South China Sea. During the war it was a major supply route. The fall of Saigon on April 30, 1975 included North Vietnamese naval forces coming up this river.

It gets hot 🥵 in the afternoons here. Really hot. 93 F and feels like 98 F…
The iconic image of a Xe Om driver on break in the afternoon.
The closeness, the pajamas, the contentment, of the Vietnamese.
Looks like a portal to heaven (view from Bui Thi Xuan in the morning)
Rainy season is coming and this is the sky before an afternoon rainstorm earlier this week.

May 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 STREET ART: ENVIRONMENT PROPAGANDA

22may26

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 STREET ART: PROPAGANDA MURAL

22may26

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: A Week in Coffee ~ Wandering, Wondering, and One Good Cup at a Time

rong chơi roughly translates to wandering or roaming freely without a specific destination.

Van – Always Wandering.

This overcast Friday morning was no different. I set out without a destination, trusting Saigon to decide where I should end up. That’s become my favorite way to travel here. The city has a habit of rewarding curiosity.

I wandered into a strange little courtyard anchored by an enormous Starbucks sign. That alone felt odd. In a country overflowing with incredible coffee, I still can’t quite justify Starbucks. But as I walked farther in, the sign faded into the background. Hidden behind it were half a dozen vintage vans serving coffee, tea, pastries, and books. It was less a café than a tiny neighborhood festival.

One van caught my eye: Rong Chơi Coffee.

Later I learned that rong chơi roughly translates to wandering or roaming freely without a specific destination. Well… if that isn’t my life in a nutshell.

The universe definitely knew what it was doing that morning.

A simple cà phê đen đá—straight black iced coffee—for 35,000 VND ($1.33), and I was reminded once again that some of the best experiences in Saigon don’t announce themselves. They wait quietly for you to stumble across them.

Barxiu

Just around the corner from where I’ve been living for months sits Barxiu, tucked away inside an apartment building.

I’d walked past it countless times without ever figuring out how to get upstairs. This week I finally asked someone, got redirected to a different staircase, and suddenly there it was.

Worth every bit of the effort.

I ordered their Dirty Matcha—Vietnamese phin coffee, condensed milk, and matcha. Normally matcha drinks can be overwhelmingly sweet, but this one wasn’t. It balanced the earthiness of the tea with the richness of Vietnamese coffee beautifully. Cozy, eclectic, and one of those cafés that makes you want to linger.

Sometimes all it takes is asking where the stairs are.

One morning I stopped at a tiny neighborhood coffee stand for a 30,000 VND cà phê sữa đá.

I only had 28,000 VND.

Without hesitation they smiled and waved me off.

“I’ll bring the other 2,000 next time,” I thought to myself.

*I dropped it off two days later. They were surprised because they didn’t expect it.

As I sat outside in one of those familiar little red plastic chairs, the family’s front doors stood wide open while they moved effortlessly between their living room and coffee cart. On the television Belgium was playing the United States in the World Cup.

S’Mores

One of this week’s highlights was discovering S’Mores Saigon, where I had a NEL drip coffee.

If you’ve never had one, a NEL drip uses a flannel cloth filter—a technique with French roots that was later perfected in Japan before eventually finding its way into old Saigon cafés. The result is unlike any other black coffee I’ve had.

Silky.

Clean.

Almost elegant.

Apparently it was once considered coffee for Vietnam’s elite.

I understand why.

It’s less like drinking coffee and more like drinking a philosophy.

Tách Tách

Tách Tách, another café inside the old mint green apartment building on Nguyễn Văn Tráng.

Their drink was called “Love You So Matcha.”

Japanese Uji matcha, oat milk, condensed milk, a touch of syrup…

Mildly sweet with no bitterness.

Exactly how I move through life these days.

Room 44

Room 44, a salted caramel latte. It is tucked inside the same mint green old apartment complex. There is something about climbing those worn staircases that always feels like entering another version of Saigon.

The Simple Café

At The Simple Café, I tried their Grape Chill Cold Brew.

Imagine sweet grape juice somehow deciding it wanted to become coffee.

Or maybe coffee deciding it wanted to become grape juice.

Odd?

Absolutely.

Worth trying?

Definitely.

Cà Phê Ông

Then there was Cà Phê Ông and their bamboo coconut coffee served in—you guessed it—a bamboo cup. A bamboo straw. Cool souvenirs. Refreshing, tropical, and exactly what you want on a humid Saigon afternoon. I met two new friends and rather than read my book, a daily ritual, I had a lovely conversation with them.

Mon Ami Café

Mon Ami Café, a French-inspired spot where a simple cà phê đen đá reminded me that sometimes the classics don’t need improving. And I really need to lay off the condensed milk…

Cool souvenirs: Bamboo Cup and Bamboo Straw at Cà Phê Ông

Nine coffees.

Nine different stories.

Some hidden behind apartment staircases.

Some tucked into family homes.

Some discovered only because I decided to wander without a plan.

July 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: GOLD

gold
Khăn rằn. The black and white checkered scarf. Originally worn by Mekong Delta farmers against sun and dust. Became the symbol of the southern resistance when Viet Cong guerrillas wore it as headwrap, face covering, and makeshift bag. During the war, wearing one was enough to get you questioned by soldiers. After 1975 it became a patriotic symbol. 🇻🇳
blue on blue
as you emerge from your accommodation in the morning, you are confronted with the realization that the day started much earlier for others
is this the same expression above as below?
you learn to lock your bag pockets and secure your bag to something sturdy when you travel off the beaten path. when i’m having a coffee and reading, it’s nice to know my bag is going to be difficult to snag…

May 2026

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 STREET ART: ART IS NOT A CRIME

8may26

SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳 ARCHITECTURAL STORIES

A strange red-paneled building by the wharf.
Saigon cosplaying modernism. Surely some kind of government building.

Ngân hàng Nhà nước Việt Nam – Chi nhánh TP.HCM

📍 Address: 8 Võ Văn Kiệt, District 1

Ho Chi Minh City branch of Vietnam’s central bank (the equivalent of:

  • the Federal Reserve in the U.S.
    dates back to the late French colonial period, most likely the 1930s.
    Original era (French Indochina – ~1930s)

The structure was built during the colonial period as part of the financial administration network tied to Banque de l’Indochine.

That bank wasn’t just any bank—it effectively acted as:

  • the central bank of French Indochina
A classic mid-century Vietnamese apartment / mixed-use block, probably dating from the 1960s–1970s.
possibly originally built for civil servants, workers, or urban middle-class residents during the late South Vietnam era
This is the LIM Tower 3, a modern office tower in District 1.
Classic modern Saigon development:
steel-and-glass office tower
wrapped in neo-classical styling

Ho Chi Minh Stock Exchange — usually called HOSE.

Vietnam’s main stock exchange:

  • the financial heart of the country’s stock market
  • where many of Vietnam’s largest companies are listed
  • effectively the Vietnamese equivalent of:
  • the NYSE in New York
  • or the London Stock Exchange

Tube Houses and Shophouses

Historically, because buildings were taxed according to street frontage rather than total area, many shophouses are long and narrow in shape, similar to the vernacular “tube house.”

The earliest surviving shophouses in Saigon date to the 1860s. The most common design is the two-storey type, featuring a shop and storage on the ground floor and residential spaces above.

6may26