THIMPHU, BHUTAN: THE PRICE OF EGGS

9march2025

THIMPHU, BHUTAN 🇧🇹: BLEND OF OLD AND NEW

Downtown Thimphu’s unique blend of old and new—where rows of meat shops and bedding stores line the street, framed by traditional Bhutanese architecture still standing strong. A glimpse of everyday life in Bhutan’s normally bustling capital, which just happens to be slow and peaceful today due to the LOSAR holiday.

1march25

THIMPHU, BHUTAN 🇧🇹: OLD-STYLE ARCHITECTURE

Amidst Thimphu’s growing modernity, traditional Bhutanese architecture still stands strong—ornate woodwork, intricate paintings, and centuries-old craftsmanship telling stories of heritage and resilience. A timeless reminder of Bhutan’s rich cultural legacy. 

1march2025

THIMPHU, BHUTAN 🇧🇹: FAST FOOD ROW

Fast Food Row in Thimphu is unusually quiet today as most families celebrate Losar (New Year) at home. The usual buzz of sizzling momos, spicy ema datshi, and piping hot suja is on pause—but the flavors of Bhutanese street food will be back in full swing soon! 

1march2025

THIMPHU, BHUTAN: ON CONFIDENCE AND SOLITUDE

On Confidence, Solitude, and the Quiet Courage of My Students

Reading my students’ essays today has left me feeling existential. Their words, their struggles, their dreams—they all sit with me. Many of them dream of travel, of seeing the world beyond Bhutan. But what strikes me most is how many of them aspire to something I’ve never thought twice about: the confidence to walk into a restaurant or café alone, to order a coffee, to sit with themselves.

It’s a quiet kind of courage, one I’ve taken for granted.

For the past 22 years, I’ve lived as a nomad, moving from country to country, city to city. Sitting alone in a café, watching the world move around me, has always been my preference. It’s where I feel most at home. I’ve never needed to summon the courage to do it—it’s simply who I am. But for my students, it’s a milestone, a step toward self-assurance, toward independence.

And that humbles me.

It reminds me to never take my freedom for granted. The ability to move through the world with ease, to find joy in solitude, to sit alone without questioning my place—these are privileges, built on years of experience, maybe even an innate confidence I never had to develop.

But for my students, confidence isn’t always innate. It’s something they reach for. And I see that in their writing, in their longing to step beyond their comfort zones, in their quiet dreams of sitting in a café alone, ordering a meal without hesitation.

It makes me wonder: When did something so small, so ordinary to me, become an act of bravery for them?

Maybe that’s the lesson for today. What we take for granted might be someone else’s mountain to climb. And what we see as effortless, others might see as courage.

“One Free”

Thimphu, Bhutan, February 2025

THIMPHU, BHUTAN ART: THE TIGER’S EYES

The tiger’s eyes burn through the wall, wide and unblinking, caught somewhere between fury and wisdom. It is not just paint on plaster—it is a presence, a reminder, a guardian from an older world where symbols hold power and myths walk alongside the living.
In Bhutanese Buddhism, the tiger is strength, protection, a force that does not hesitate. And yet, in the way its body stretches and curls, there is movement, a restless energy pressing against the surface, as if it might leap free, off this wall, at any moment.
In Thimphu, these symbols are everywhere, woven into the streets, the temples, the fabric of daily life. You pass by them without thinking, until one day, you don’t. You stop. You meet the tiger’s gaze, and for a moment, you understand—this place is alive in ways you can’t quite explain.
I notice them everywhere. 🐅 ☸️

February 2025

THIMPHU, BHUTAN: THE HISTORY OF BHUTAN by KARMA PHUNTSHO

Bhutan is a land of contradictions—ancient yet evolving, isolated yet deeply connected to the world in ways that defy logic. In The History of Bhutan, Karma Phuntsho unravels the country’s past with the precision of a historian and the storytelling instinct of a novelist. From the earliest myths of sacred mountains and hidden valleys to the rise of the Wangchuck dynasty and Bhutan’s cautious steps into modernity, Phuntsho traces the nation’s journey with a keen eye for detail and an unflinching sense of truth.


But this is more than just history. It’s a meditation on identity, faith, and the delicate balance between tradition and change. For anyone drawn to Bhutan—not just as a place on a map but as an idea, a living enigma—this book is essential. It doesn’t just tell you what happened. It makes you feel the weight of time pressing against the mountains, the pulse of a nation finding its way forward without forgetting where it began.

February 2015

THIMPHU, BHUTAN: THE EVER-FLOWING NOW OF IT ALL

I saw that dragon, that crazy serpentine beast dancing up the mint-green wall like some holy apparition rising through Himalayan mist, all spotted and scaled and breathing fire-clouds that curl like the smoke from a thousand butter lamps in the dawn. Always passing by it in a taxi, today, I decided to walk to it.

And there hanging, this massive prayer wheel with its ancient Sanskrit wisdom etched in gold against white, turning turning turning with the weight of centuries, each rotation sending mantras spinning into the thin mountain air where snow-capped peaks pierce the belly of heaven itself.

The dragon’s eyes fierce with enlightenment, its body twisting through realms of samsara while that QR code sits there like some modern mandala, digital dharma beaming straight into the 21st century, while the accordion-fold gate stands sentinel, all geometric and patient, watching the eternal dance of ancient and now, now and forever, forever and now.

Everything’s connected here.

This is Bhutan, crystallized in one corner, one moment, where the dragons still dance and the wheels still turn and the ancient wisdom meets the digital age in a sublime cosmic shuffle that’d make the Buddha himself snap his fingers in holy beat appreciation, digging the ever-flowing now of it all.

THIMPHU, BHUTAN: BHUTANESE BUDDHISM

Closeups of paintings of great historical characters from Bhutanese Buddhism ☸️ displayed on a chorten near the Old Faithful tree.

1- This is Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), the revered Buddhist master who brought Vajrayana Buddhism to Bhutan and Tibet in the 8th century. He is considered the “Second Buddha” and is credited with subduing demonic forces, blessing sacred sites, and establishing Buddhism as the dominant spiritual tradition in Bhutan. His teachings and hidden treasures (terma) continue to shape Bhutanese Buddhist practice today.

2-This is Pema Lingpa, one of Bhutan’s greatest tertons (treasure revealers). He was a 15th-century saint and spiritual master who discovered sacred Buddhist teachings (terma) hidden by Guru Rinpoche. Pema Lingpa’s prophecies, visions, and contributions to Bhutanese culture, including sacred dances and religious texts, remain influential in Bhutanese Buddhism today.
3-This is Palden Lhamo (also known as Mahakali), the fierce female protector deity (Dharmapala) in Bhutanese and Tibetan Buddhism. She is the wrathful guardian of the Buddhist teachings and the only female among the Eight Dharma Protectors. Depicted with a flaming aura, wearing a garland of skulls, and riding a mule across a sea of blood, she is associated with wisdom, protection, and the destruction of obstacles on the spiritual path.
4-This appears to be Shakyamuni Buddha (also known as Buddha Gautama or the historical Buddha) depicted in traditional Bhutanese thangka painting style. He is shown in his classic meditation pose, wearing orange monastic robes adorned with floral patterns, sitting on a lotus throne, with a golden complexion and the urna (third eye mark) on his forehead. The sun and moon symbols in the background are also typical elements of Buddhist iconography.

8feb25

THIMPHU, BHUTAN: THE OLD FAITHFUL TREE OF CHANGZAMTOG

The Old Faithful Tree of Changzamtog: The Legacy of Drukpa Kunley

“Let this tree stand for those who seek wisdom and those who seek mischief—both will find shelter beneath it.”
———————-
This ancient tree, said to be over several centuries old, is not only known for its imposing presence but also for its legendary ties to Drukpa Kunley, the Divine Madman.

According to local legend, when Drukpa Kunley passed through Changzamtog on one of his many journeys, he stopped beneath what would later be called the Old Faithful Tree. He rested under its shade, meditated, and shared his teachings with a small group of villagers. It is said that before he left, he struck the ground with his dungchen (ritual staff) and proclaimed that a great tree would grow here, one that would stand the test of time and serve as a silent guardian of the land.

It is growing out of the chorten.
Drukpa Kunley

Thimphu, Bhutan 🇧🇹
8feb25