THIMPHU, BHUTAN šŸ‡§šŸ‡¹: TIME TICKS TOWARDS DEPARTURE

Something slipping away with each sunrise…

Departure is coming. I know it. My body knows it. My chest feels hollowed out, as though something is being carefully scooped from me—day by day, breath by breath. I walk the same streets I’ve walked all year, but now the light hits differently. Now everything is tinged with the ache of leaving. The trees, the sounds—they’ve all become part of the goodbye.

My breathing has gone shallow. Not out of panic. It’s like I’m trying not to breathe too deeply, because I might drown in it. There’s too much here. Too many moments stored in the air. I exhale carefully, afraid that if I breathe too hard, I’ll let go of something I haven’t said goodbye to yet.

What’s worse is that I chose this. I always do. I walk into places knowing I’ll one day walk out of them. But it doesn’t make it easier. It never does. Each place leaves its mark. And each time, I convince myself I’m getting better at leaving—stronger, wiser, more practiced. But my body says otherwise. It tenses. It stalls. It aches in places I didn’t know could ache.

There’s no romanticizing it today. This isn’t one of those ā€œbittersweetā€ posts. This is bitter. Full stop. This is the knowing that I won’t sit in this cafĆ© again with this particular light pooling through the window. This is the kind of grief that doesn’t come with funerals or parting words. Just a quiet vacuum, pressing in on the ribs.

I’ve begun collecting moments like talismans—sunsets, laughter, strangers’ kindnesses. I hoard them selfishly, trying to build some kind of armor for the journey ahead. But I know it’s useless. Memory doesn’t replace presence. It can’t. And maybe it shouldn’t.

Soon, I’ll be on the other side of this. In a new city, with a new rhythm. But right now, I’m here. On the edge of a place I’ve loved. Breathing shallow. Holding time gently, even as it slips through my fingers.

Departure is coming.

And my chest remembers it before my mind does.

Two days left in Thimphu, Bhutan šŸ‡§šŸ‡¹ and then heading to Kathmandu for a while…

July2025

THIMPHU, BHUTAN: THE ACHE OF NOT BEING UNDERSTOOD

On Loneliness, Solitude, and the Ache of Not Being Understood

I’ve never feared being alone. In fact, I crave it. Solitude has always felt like sanctuary—a quiet place where I can finally hear myself think, finally breathe without adjusting my rhythm to someone else’s.

But that’s not the same as loneliness.

Loneliness, for me, is never about the absence of people. I’ve felt it most when I was surrounded. In a room full of laughter, or in the middle of a conversation that never touches the marrow of anything real.

That kind of loneliness seeps in when you realize:

They don’t see you.

Not the parts that actually matter.

It’s the ache of having words that sit heavy in your throat, and the quiet knowing that this—this—isn’t something you can hand over to just anyone.

I’ve carried that silence. And it has weight.

There’s a particular kind of grief in not being understood. A slow, subtle grief. Not loud or dramatic—but steady. It makes you question whether what you feel is valid.

Solitude is peace. Loneliness is silence where there should’ve been understanding.

When I feel misunderstood—truly, deeply misunderstood—my first instinct isn’t to explain myself. It’s to retreat.

Not in anger. Not in dramatics. Just quietly, completely.

I shut down.

I disappear.

Because I’ve learned that there’s a specific kind of exhaustion that comes from trying to translate yourself to people who only ever hear in their own language.

And when I sense that wall—that disinterest, that misinterpretation, that subtle dismissal—I don’t argue with it. I don’t try to rephrase. I just… go.

Sometimes it’s a physical leaving.

Sometimes it’s emotional.

But either way, I detach.

It’s not about holding a grudge.

People think silence is cold. But for me, it’s protective.

There have been times I’ve tried to explain, tried to meet someone halfway, tried to show the shape of what I meant.

But if that’s met with dismissal too many times, I learn.

I learn that this is not the space.

That this is not the person.

So yes, I pull away.

Some connections can hold the weight of real understanding. Others can’t.

I’d rather sit alone in the truth of who I am than stay connected to nothing.

If I’ve pulled away, it’s a quiet act of self-preservation. And a call to venture forth in search of my tribe. A place where I truly belong.

July 2025

THIMPHU, BHUTAN šŸ‡§šŸ‡¹: THE ā€œLASTSā€

The lasts are stacking up now.

The last bagel and caramel latte at Ambient CafĆ©. The quiet hum of conversation that’s always felt like white noise to my thoughts. I took my time, but still—it ended too fast. I stared at the foam, thinking how many times I’d sat there, writing, marking essays, reading, or editing photos.

The last watermelon juice at Le Petit CafƩ.

The last time I’ll slide postcards through the red slot of the Thimphu Post Office letterbox. I always loved that small ritual—the flick of the wrist, the thunk of paper falling inside.

The last bus pickup from the stadium. I memorized the way the mountains rise like old souls behind the buildings.

And now, tonight—tightening the suitcases. Zippers pulling shut on a year. Fitting a life into shapes that roll. Packing feels like erasing. Like folding a chapter closed, knowing you can never unfold it exactly the same again.

I leave in the middle of the night. Quiet. The city won’t notice. That’s okay. It gave me what I needed. A year to be still. A year to be quiet. A year to be with myself. A year to write.

I’m closing out a season of solitude. I didn’t know I needed it this badly until I was in it.

But it’s time now.

Time to move forward.

Time to carry the hush of this place with me, to Kathmandu.

july25
Thimphu, Bhutan šŸ‡§šŸ‡¹

MUSINGS FROM THIMPHU, BHUTAN: REGRETS

Yes, I Have Regrets.

There’s this idea floating around—especially in self-help circles—that living without regret is some kind of badge of honor. That the goal is to charge forward, fearless, proclaiming, ā€œI wouldn’t change a thing.ā€

But here’s the thing: I would change things. And I’m not ashamed to say that.

I have regrets. Deep ones. Sharp ones. Soft, lingering ones that show up in the background of sleepless nights.

That’s being human.

My current self regrets things my former self said, or didn’t say.

Things I tolerated when I shouldn’t have.

Things I avoided because I was afraid.

People I hurt.

Opportunities I let pass because I didn’t think I was ready—or worthy.

But here’s the grace in it:

That former version of me, the one I sometimes wince to look back on, was doing the best she could. With what she knew. With what she had.

She made choices out of survival. She wasn’t trying to sabotage her future. She was trying to make it through the day.

So yes, I have regrets. But I don’t use them as weapons. I use them as teachers.

To claim a life with no regret is to deny evolution. It’s to pretend that the person you were ten years ago had it all figured out—which, let’s be honest, they didn’t.

Regret, to me, is a sign that growth has occurred. It means I’ve become someone who sees more clearly. Someone who knows better now.

And maybe that’s the most human thing of all:

To look back with both sorrow and compassion.

To hold your past self accountable—but gently.

To say: You could’ve done better, but I understand why you didn’t.

And then keep going.

Forward. Wiser. Still learning.

—

With regret, and grace.

July2025

THIMPHU, BHUTAN: CASCADE

There is something about rushing water cascading down a mountainā€¦šŸ˜Œ

July2025

THIMPHU, BHUTAN: WHEN THE MYSTIQUE FADES

When I first arrived in Thimphu, everything felt dipped in magic. Even the air felt like it carried some quiet, ancient truth. I moved through those early days in a kind of hush—watching, listening, grateful. Everything felt meaningful. Everything felt sacred.

But time does what time always does. It settles in.

After a year, the mystique has peeled away in layers. The mountains are still here, unchanged, but I no longer stare at them like they hold answers. The prayer flags have faded, both literally and figuratively. The rituals that once filled me with reverence now feel…routine. And that shift—it stings a little.

It’s not that I don’t love this place anymore. I do. But love has changed shape. What started as awe has morphed into something quieter, more grounded, and less poetic. I see the potholes now. I notice the dogs that don’t stop barking. I feel the weight of systems, of bureaucracy, of the everyday. I’m no longer the wide-eyed outsider; I’m someone who knows where to get decent coffee and which shop will overcharge me for fruit.

And yet.

Even as the wonder fades, something else grows. A different kind of knowing. A different kind of respect.

Because once the mystique is gone, what’s left is real. And real is where the work begins. Real is where you stop romanticizing and start understanding.

There’s grief in that. But also grace.

I came looking for something I couldn’t name. I found it, for a while, in every corner and cloud. And then I lost it.

But maybe the mystique has to fade, so you can stop chasing magic and start standing still.

So you can stop looking at a place and start living in it.

So you can say goodbye not with illusions, but with clarity.

And in its own way, that’s a kind of magic too.

—

Thimphu, Bhutan. One year in.

THIMPHU, BHUTAN: THE RIVER FLOWS, THE RIVER KNOWS

River Runs Through It

There’s a certain kind of stillness you find on the roads that wind through the mountains above Thimphu. It’s not the silence of emptiness, but of something fuller—something ancient. The world gets quieter here, but never silent. Because underneath the hush of pine trees and prayer flags moving like slow breath in the wind, there is always the sound of water.

Not just any water. Not a trickle. Not a distant stream. But the rapid, ceaseless current of mountain rivers—white and wild, roaring without aggression. It’s the kind of sound that fills you without overwhelming you. That calms your nervous system like a lullaby sung by the earth itself.

Walking these roads, often alone, sometimes with the faint company of a stray dog, I listen. I listen not with my ears only, but with something deeper. Because the rivers in Bhutan aren’t just scenery—they’re story. They’re history. They’re meditation.

In a world where so much competes for our attention, the sound of a river asks for nothing. It doesn’t demand or shout. It simply moves, persistently and honestly. And that—somehow—makes space for your own thoughts to do the same. It draws you in without effort.

I’ve found clarity here, on these roads with their mossy stone walls and soft inclines. I’ve let go of questions I didn’t know I was carrying. I’ve stood at the edge of bridges, despite my fear of heights, watching the water rush beneath, and felt something shift inside. A small surrender. A return to rhythm.

If you’re lucky enough to find yourself in Thimphu, don’t just stay in town. Walk up. Let your feet find gravel and your ears find the river. Let the sounds of the mountains speak to you.

You don’t need to understand it.

You just need to listen.

6july25

THIMPHU, BHUTAN: AUTHENTIC BHUTANESE CRAFTS BAZAAR

In downtown Thimphu, a charming open-air stretch dubbed the Thimphu Handicrafts Market or Authentic Bhutanese Crafts Bazaar runs along Norzin Lam, opposite the Nehru Wangchuk Cultural Centre. Here’s what makes it special:

šŸ“ What is it?

A vibrant bazaar featuring roughly 80 wooden huts manned by skilled Bhutanese artisans, many of whom come from rural areas to showcase their craft  . Stalls overflow with:

Thangkas, mandala paintings & masks Handwoven textiles, embroidered boots & bags Carved wood, slate & bamboo goods Handcrafted jewelry & traditional paper items 

It’s a sensory journey through Bhutan’s 13 traditional arts (Zorig Chusum), celebrated in a grounded, local setting  . You can mingle with the artisans, often hear their stories, and handpick a meaningful souvenir while watching them work.

šŸ“ How long is it?

The bazaar stretches roughly 0.5 kilometres along a pedestrian-friendly lane  . With around 80 stalls, it’s easy to spend 2–3 hours browsing, chatting, and sampling local handicrafts  .

✨ Why visit it?

Preserves and promotes authentic rural craftsmanship  Ideal for spotting genuine Bhutanese art (not touristy replicas)  A lively community hub: artisans welcome you to learn the craft and price items with a smile 

šŸ•š Tips for visiting:

Open daily, roughly 10 AM–6 PM  Better to visit in the morning or afternoon for a less crowded stroll  Bring cash—many vendors don’t take cards  Haggling is acceptable in moderation 

3july25

THIMPHU, BHUTAN: THE SKY IS LEAVING WITH ME

ā€œThe Sky is Leaving With Meā€

I didn’t expect the clouds to feel so personal.

In these final days in Thimphu, I find myself pausing more—lingering at street corners, watching prayer flags flap like they’ve known me all along, and letting the sky stretch over my head like an old friend saying goodbye without words.

There’s a strange ache in leaving a place you never thought would matter so much. Bhutan crept up on me. Not with fanfare, but with quiet rituals: butter lamps flickering at dawn, locals offering warm nods on cold mornings, coffee shops that became sanctuaries. This town didn’t ask me to belong—it just let me.

Now, everything feels like a last.

Last rainy afternoon walk up the hill.

Last caramel latte at the cafƩ where I wrote about mountains and memories.

Last time the wind rushes over my face as I glance at the dzong tucked under storm-stirred clouds.

I feel both full and hollow. Full of the moments I’ve lived here. Hollow because I can’t carry them all with me.

There’s no guidebook chapter for ā€œhow to leave a place you quietly fell in love with.ā€ So I’m doing what I can—taking photos, walking without earbuds, letting the final days mark me in the way only Bhutan can: softly, profoundly, without noise.

I suppose the only way to leave a place like this is to promise you’ll never forget the way it changed you. And to keep that promise.

Goodbye, Thimphu. You were never loud, but you were everything.

2july25

THIMPHU, BHUTAN: WORLD FLIPPED

The world flipped in a glass sphere—just like this past year.
Thimphu, Bhutan, where the murals are mountains and life is in cafƩs.
No street art to chase, so I learned to sit still.
To look closer.
To let quiet places hold me.

28june25