“Escape This Reality” 🤖 The walls of Thimphu whisper. Graffiti here isn’t rebellion—it’s a quiet plea, a dream scrawled in secret. The kids who pick up the spray can feel the pull of something bigger, something freer. They’re caught between the prayer flags and the concrete, between their ancestors and the flickering glow of the outside world. But fear keeps them small. Fear of a culture that doesn’t yet know how to hold rebellion without breaking it. So, the graffiti stays hidden, a voice without a body, hoping one day to step into the light and call itself art. This is my interpretation of the state of purgatory in which graffiti exists here. The tunnel under the highway. Very, very different kind of ‘graffiti’ tunnel than all of the other cities around the world that I’ve explored. But, it is what it is.
In Bhutan, lanterns hanging above the streets are a relatively modern occurrence, often introduced during festivals, celebrations, or special occasions to enhance the ambiance of places like downtown Thimphu. Lanterns are not traditionally part of Bhutanese culture, though.
• Lanterns represent light, which is significant in Buddhism as a symbol of wisdom, enlightenment, and the dispelling of ignorance. • Their use in streets and public spaces mirrors the spiritual value of light in guiding individuals on their paths.
This is on a door at Chang Yul Park. I was moved by the swirls and unassuming, yet evocative, colors. It spoke to me for some reason.
It’s a “Dharma Wheel” (Dharmachakra), a common and sacred symbol in Bhutanese Buddhism. This intricate design represents the Buddhist teachings and the path to enlightenment.
Symbolism of the Dharma Wheel:
1. The Three Spirals in the Center: • The spirals symbolize the Three Jewels of Buddhism: the Buddha (the teacher), the Dharma (the teachings), and the Sangha (the spiritual community). These are central to Buddhist practice. • The swirling design suggests movement and the cyclical nature of life, death, and rebirth (samsara), which Buddhism aims to transcend. The feeling of movement is real…
2. The Outer Rim and Petals: • The circular rim represents the perfection of the Buddha’s teachings, which are unending and universal. • The petals signify lotus blossoms, which in Buddhist symbolism stand for purity, spiritual awakening, and enlightenment.
3. Color Significance: • The use of gold and earthy tones reflects Bhutanese artistic traditions, with gold representing divinity and enlightenment. • The soft red, green, and yellow hues emphasize harmony and balance, core values of Bhutanese culture.
Cultural Context in Bhutan: These symbols serve as a reminder of the Buddhist path, encouraging mindfulness and respect for the teachings of the Buddha. Thimphu, Bhutan 🇧🇹 17nov24
Bhutanese murals are an important part of Bhutan’s spiritual and cultural identity. They’re often found in monasteries, temples, dzongs, on public walls, and chortens. These murals are richly symbolic, blending artistry and craftsmanship with religious devotion, and they serve as both decorative and educational elements of Bhutanese Buddhist practice. This mural begins with a depiction of one of the most famous Bhutanese fables, “The Four Friends.”
In Bhutan, the practice of walking around prayer buildings, such as temples (lakhangs), monasteries, or stupas (chortens), is deeply rooted in Buddhist traditions. This act, called circumambulation, is a form of meditation and spiritual practice that reflects devotion and mindfulness.
A chorten (stupa). In Bhutan, these are sacred Buddhist monuments designed for meditation, reverence, and as symbols of the enlightened mind of the Buddha. When there are no prayer wheels, (because usually there are, if it’s a bigger chorten) the focus shifts entirely to the spiritual energy emanating from the structure itself, particularly through the imagery of Buddhas or deities. So, the artwork is very important. These smaller chortens often feature:
• Painted or carved Buddhas representing different aspects of enlightenment. • Directional symbolism, as the sides often correspond to the cardinal directions, each associated with a Buddha or element.
These small chortens are commonly found in urban areas, like Thimphu, (like this one!) and serve as spaces for quiet prayer or meditation, emphasizing stillness and reflection over interactive practices like spinning prayer wheels. However, I can’t imagine how peaceful this one is, as it is located right beside a busy road.
At the site of the Buddha Dordenma, traditonal Bhutanese art and iconography are highlighted. They feature intricate designs, often with religious themes, such as depictions of deities, mandalas, and other Buddhist symbols. These designs are typically hand-painted or carved onto the surfaces, showcasing the skill and artistry of Bhutanese craftsmen. And the Druk, (the dragon, of course.)
Thimphu’s walls whisper of rebellion, of a youth longing to express itself. Graffiti, the human spirit’s eternal quest for expression. It simmers beneath the surface here, a dormant volcano waiting to erupt, a silent protest against the mundane, a defiant cry for individuality.
Dragons on the front of the National Stadium’s Front Gate in Thimphu, Bhutan.
In Bhutan, the dragon, or druk, is a mythical animal that symbolizes the country’s culture, monarchy, and mythology. It is often painted on houses and public buildings. It is also featured prominently on the national flag. The dragon represents many things, including:
The name of the country: Bhutan is known as Druk Yul, which means “Land of the Thunder Dragon”.
National guardian: The dragon is the symbolic guardian of Bhutan, protecting the country from harm and outside forces.
Wealth and prosperity: The dragon holds jewels in its claws, which represent Bhutan’s wealth and prosperity.
Purity: The dragon on the flag is white, which symbolizes purity and the loyalty of Bhutan’s ethnic groups.
Enlightenment: Artists from the Vajrayana Buddhist tradition use the dragon as a symbol of enlightenment.
Power, creativity, and good fortune: Dragons are thought to symbolize power, creativity, and good fortune.
Authority over the elements: Dragons are thought to have authority over bodies of water, rain, floods, and storms.
An Atsara at Royal Thimphu College’s International Festival on October 30, 2024.
I’ve had to do some research on what exactly an Atsara is.
Ok, right off the bat, they ARE clowns, like jesters, BUT they are also spiritual teachers, storytellers, and masters of ceremonies of special events. The blood red mask, which symbolizes burning passion, is set with a perpetual grin and something swinging from the top of its head. That thing swinging, is a phallus. Phalluses are not only a symbol of good luck, fertility, and family harmony, they are also used to ward off evil spirits.
Atsaras represent the aspects of Buddhism of being open, jovial, and liberal. They teach us to rise above and to let things go. Atsaras are enlightened beings who don’t experience human frailties like anger, desire, shame, or petty likes. They want for nothing and do not covet. “Legend has it that Atsaras were among the Dupthob Gyabchu, the Buddha’s disciples. 84 Dupthobs, who had detached themselves from worldly desires and attachments, roamed the world, mocking worldly objects to overcome evil” (Ping, C. Daily Bhutan, 2021.)
They can be vulgar and use foul language against evil forces. They don’t comprehend hesitation, embarrassment, or reservation.
While some wave them off as clowns, they are much more than that and they are sent to get people to enjoy their lives and to unleash their shackles and to become free spirits.
And, like at this festival at RTC, they can be a master of ceremonies where they entertain, as well as control the audience, and do their best to ensure that the entire event runs smoothly. Which, it did.
