Alright, let me break it down for you—The Four Friends, Bhutanese style, is like the ultimate harmony anthem! Picture this: an elephant, a monkey, a rabbit, and a bird, all teaming up for the vibe of unity and balance. The bird plants a seed, the rabbit waters it, the monkey nurtures it, and the elephant stands tall so everyone can reach the fruit. It’s about friendship, cooperation, and making magic together, babe. Think Culture Club meets Buddhist wisdom—colorful, meaningful, and totally iconic! 🌈✨
Paro, Bhutan. A street, a wall, a yellow burst of life in the mountain air, and there it is—the symbol of it all, the cosmic jest painted boldly in strokes of faith and humor. The phallus. It’s not just a phallus. It’s an ancient mantra written in form, dripping with the smoke of timeless prayers and the laughter of monks who know the secret of the void. This is not prudishness; this is freedom.
You see it everywhere here, on the houses, on the walls, on the winds that swirl around the hills—meant to ward off the evil eye, a divine joke on the demons who seek to invade the sacred space. It’s the Buddha’s outrageous, earthy truth, telling you to let go, to laugh at the absurd, to see the spirit in every line and curve of creation.
The mustard-yellow wall and that window, framed with its carved wood, cradle the painted phallus like it’s holding the pulse of the earth itself. It’s alive in a way Western minds might struggle to grasp, standing tall against shame, speaking for joy, for life, for raw, beautiful existence. It’s the wisdom of the Himalayas that says, “Here is life, here is spirit, here is everything.”
This appears to be a depiction of a Garuda, a mythical bird-like creature in Buddhist mythology. Garudas are often seen as protectors of the Dharma (Buddhist teachings) and are sometimes depicted as having the power to subdue serpents.This mural likely depicts a hungry ghost, a being from Buddhist cosmology.
Key characteristics:
Thin Body: They are often depicted with emaciated bodies, large bellies, and thin necks.
Unsatisfied Desire: They are constantly hungry and thirsty but are unable to satisfy their desires, leading to perpetual suffering.
Symbolism:
Greed and Attachment: Hungry ghosts symbolize the negative consequences of greed, attachment, and excessive desire.
Impermanence: They serve as a reminder of the impermanence of material possessions and the futility of seeking happiness through them.
This mural may be intended to inspire viewers to cultivate detachment and compassion.
The day I finally connected with Ugyen, the guru’s housekeeper, to see a mural by DALEAST, will go down as one of my best days in Bhutan. I usually don’t go anywhere for any extended period of time that doesn’t have a surplus of street art. Bhutan was my exception. And then to find out that there are a few pieces from one of the most recognized street artists in the world here, I had to chase them down. The artist himself has put me in touch with the keepers of these private residences. Long story short, he got stuck here during Covid 🦠, hence, it is depicted in this mural.
The artist’s explanation of the mural is here. I did some additional research in reference to what he mentions about Padmasambhava and Parnashavari:
Padmasambhava embodies the union of opposites—wisdom and compassion, destruction and creation—transforming obstacles into enlightenment. Parnashavari, the forest goddess, bridges nature and healing, embodying the tension between wildness and protection. Both represent duality as a path to transcendence: opposites not as contradictions, but as complements guiding toward wholeness.
I have been invited to do a retreat here anytime, and I am very much looking forward to it. ☮️ 🕉️☸️☯️ Padmasambhava, a.k.a. Guru Rinpoche, considered the second Buddha.Ugyen, the guru’s housekeeper, and the one who helped make this visit to the private residence possible.
I spent the week before Christmas in Paro and enjoyed some good food.
The four items directly below are from the Mountain Cafés. The first two are from the one on the Main Street. And it only offers veg-options. The other two are from the one facing the city center park. This one offers both veg and non-veg-options.
Christmas Oreo cheesecake Aloo Tamatar Bhutan Cordyceps Tea by Bhutan Cordyceps Sinensis is a blend of Bhutanese Wild Cordyceps, Tulsi and Green Tea. *Cordyceps are known to boost your body’s immune system by strengthening the defence mechanism in the body. Packed with antioxidants and anti-carcinogen, it delays the ageing process and also helps replenish the kidneys and gastrointestinal system. It was good. Hamburger. I live in Thimphu and I’ve been trying to find a burger for the past six months, not one that’s going to match something from the States, I’ve given up that hope…BUT, I keep looking for something that’s going to at least satisfy my craving. Suffice it to say, this is the best hamburger I’ve found. Not disappointed.Steamed pork momo at Sonam Trophel restaurant. Their dumplings are popular in Paro.Sea Salt Caramel pie from Brioche Café
Even here, in Bhutan, where mountains guard tradition and prayer flags whisper peace, rebellion finds a voice. Graffiti creeps along whitewashed walls—half-hidden, half-bold. A splash of black, a cryptic symbol, a crude phrase. It’s defiance, but not loud—more like a quiet challenge, a mixed message where sacred meets profane. A spray can marks a fleeting claim. A traveler leaves words no one will read. It’s rebellion and belonging, chaos and order, a need to say, I was here. Even in a land of harmony, the walls have something to say.
A traditional Bhutanese Buddhist motif featuring the Dharma Wheel (dharmachakra) in the center, painted in golden yellow with ornate details and sitting atop a lotus flower. It’s flanked by two deer, which likely represent the deer from the Deer Park in Sarnath where Buddha gave his first sermon.
