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July 2026







July 2026







July 2026

Straight black, no sugar, that’s my order everywhere I go. Most of the time. Here in Phnom Penh, it’s been perfect every single time. No bitterness, usually two shots of espresso in there for a real caffeine hit, and every café I’ve tried so far has nailed it. Not one miss yet.


Saigon was a different story. The black coffee there was hit or miss depending on the place, and you always had to remember to specify no sugar, because if you didn’t, it would somehow find its way into the cup anyway. Here in Phnom Penh, they actually ask you about your sugar preference every time. No guessing, no fine print, they just check. I appreciate that.


Now, when it comes to specialty drinks, that’s where Saigon wins, no contest. But I understand why now. It’s the sugar. All of it. That’s the secret ingredient behind those elaborate Vietnamese coffee drinks that make them so good.


Even here in Phnom Penh, when I ordered a salt cream coffee, they still asked if I wanted sugar in it, so I could say no. And honestly, it was still tasty without it. Cambodia is clearly building something good with its coffee scene.
But overall, Saigon’s specialty coffee culture is still unmatched. Phnom Penh is getting there, and it’s got the fundamentals locked down, but it hasn’t caught up to Saigon’s game yet.



September 2026



July 2026



This is the historic Saigon Railway Operations Branch building (Chi nhánh Khai thác Đường sắt Sài Gòn), part of the Vietnamese national railway system.
📍 136 Hàm Nghi Street
This is one of the surviving French colonial administrative buildings from the late 19th or early 20th century, when Vietnam’s railway network was being developed under French Indochina.
The building originally served railway administration during the colonial era, when Saigon was the southern hub of the expanding railway system. It managed operations connected with routes that eventually linked Saigon with central Vietnam and, by 1936, the complete North–South railway between Saigon and Hanoi.

After 1975, it continued its transportation role and today remains an office of the national railway operator, overseeing railway operations in southern Vietnam rather than serving as a passenger station.
Pics above by me, July 2026


July 2026

The Vĩnh Hội Parish was established in 1875, only a few years after the French consolidated control of Saigon.

Instead of copying a European Gothic cathedral, its architects incorporated traditional Vietnamese and East Asian architectural elements:

Yet the unmistakable Christian features remain:
The result is a church that feels distinctly Vietnamese rather than imported.




7july26
District 4





July 2026

Tân Định Church, officially the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, is one of Ho Chi Minh City’s most iconic landmarks. Located on Hai Bà Trưng Street in District 3.
⛪️ Founded in 1876 during the French colonial period. It was established by Father Donatien Éveillard.

⛪️ It features a blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance architectural styles, highlighted by a 52.6-meter-tall bell tower.
⛪️ The church was originally painted in the yellow-and-white colors typical of French colonial buildings, it was repainted in its signature salmon-pink in 1957.

⛪️ Often called the “Pink Church,” it is the second-largest church in Ho Chi Minh City after the Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica.



3july26



1. Mid-Century Origins (1960s–1970s)
The building was constructed between 40 and 60 years ago, placing its origins in the era of the Republic of Vietnam (South Vietnam). At that time, Nguyễn Văn Tráng was part of a bustling residential and commercial zone near the Ben Thanh market.
• Design Philosophy: Unlike the ornate French colonial buildings, No. 35 reflects the modernist/brutalist leanings of that era—characterized by raw concrete, functional geometric lines, and open hallways designed to catch the breeze.
• The Materiality: It is noted for its “rough beauty,” featuring original đá rửa (washed stone) and traditional gạch bông (encaustic cement tiles) on the floors—materials that were once the standard for middle-class Saigonese living.
2. Post-1975 Transition
Following the events of 1975, many of these apartment buildings were reorganized. Large units were often subdivided into smaller residences to accommodate the city’s growing population. This created the “winding corridor” atmosphere you see today, where private life spills out into shared hallways with small kitchens and drying laundry.
3. The 2017 Revitalization
In 2017, the building gained a new life through the work of architect Nguyên Hạnh Nguyên.
• Preservation through Cleaning: Rather than tearing it down or covering it in modern panels, the team focused on deep-cleaning the old concrete and tiles.
• Contrast Architecture: They added glass elements to create a contrast between the “old rough” and “new smooth,” which made the building a magnet for the city’s creative community.

4. Present Day: A Creative Hub
Today, No. 35 is no longer just a residential block. It has become a vertical “hidden village” for Saigon’s youth and nomadic travelers:
• Hidden Cafes & Shops: It houses “secret” spots like Nhà Chung Cafe and the foreign language bookstore/cafe Pages of Passion.
• Nomadic Lodging: Higher floors are home to hostels and boutique stays like Onetel Saigon Panorama, offering a rooftop view of the skyline that contrasts sharply with the gritty, historical staircases.
It’s a great example of how Saigon’s history isn’t just found in museums, but in the layers of paint and concrete of the buildings where people still live, work, and drink coffee every day.
Travel Tip: If you head up to the higher floors, look for the original tile patterns; they are a direct link to the interior design trends of the 1960s Saigon middle class.





May 2026