In Bhutan, the phallus is everywhere—painted on houses, carved into wood, dangling from rooftops like wind chimes of virility. It’s not crude; it’s tradition. It wards off evil, invites fertility, and reminds you not to take yourself too seriously.
Blame (or thank) Drukpa Kunley, the “Divine Madman,” for this unapologetic display of sacred irreverence. He fought demons with humor, tamed spirits with wine, and left behind a legacy where the absurd and the holy walk hand in hand. It’s hard to be a prude in a country where even the sacred is a little mischievous.
I went on a quest to find this elusive mural by DALeast high up in the hills of a nunnery, today.
This mural in Thimphu, Bhutan, painted by the Chinese-born street artist DALeast, features a striking, dynamic depiction of a horse rendered in his signature style. The flowing lines create an illusion of movement, energy, and intensity, resembling a sculpture of light and wire. The choice of a horse—a powerful and symbolic figure—reflects themes of freedom, strength, and spirituality, often tied to Bhutan’s cultural and Buddhist ethos.
In his Instagram post, DALeast refers to the legendary figure Tangtong Gyalpo, a Bhutanese and Tibetan historical figure renowned as a mahasiddha (an accomplished tantric practitioner). Tangtong Gyalpo was a polymath—a spiritual master, architect, physician, and artist—credited with innovations such as the construction of suspension bridges in the Himalayas and the promotion of ironwork.
DALeast’s mural pays homage to Tangtong Gyalpo’s legacy by symbolizing the energy and creativity that defined the mahasiddha’s life. The post conveys DALeast’s inspiration and admiration for Tangtong Gyalpo’s impact on Bhutanese and Himalayan culture. The collaboration at the residence of a modern Bhutanese spiritual figure, Tang Tong Tulku, further links this artwork to both the historical and contemporary continuity of spiritual and artistic traditions in Bhutan. 🇧🇹
Here, I am with Ngawang, a nun who has lived at the Zilukha Nunnery, where this mural is, for the past 8 years.
These two murals are painted on the walls at the entrance of the Bhutan Post Office.
The murals depict the Four Harmonious Friends—an elephant, monkey, rabbit, and bird—stacked together in a natural setting. This traditional Bhutanese symbol represents harmony, cooperation, and interdependence.
According to a Buddhist fable, these animals worked together to care for a fruit tree, demonstrating unity despite their differences.
The story emphasizes the importance of mutual respect, community living, and environmental stewardship, values deeply ingrained in Bhutanese culture.
This imagery is often seen in monasteries, schools, and public spaces, reinforcing moral teachings and social harmony.
