SAIGON, VIETNAM 🇻🇳: SIMPLE GESTURES

This week began the way most of my best days in Vietnam begin: with no real plan.

I wandered down a small alley off Nguyễn Đình Chiểu because something—a mural, curiosity, instinct, who knows—pulled me in. I thought I was headed to a café, but instead I found a woman selling coffee on the street. She smiled with the kind of warmth that makes you stop walking.

I actually walked past her.

Then that smile reached me a second time.

I turned around.

Good decision.

She poured me a cà phê sữa đá into a real glass mug because I was staying to drink it there. Somehow that simple gesture changed the coffee. Glass just feels right. The coffee stayed colder, the flavors lingered, and for a few minutes the alley became my favorite café in Saigon.

Flat White on Lý Tự Trọng.

I ordered a cà phê đen đá—straight black, no sugar, no milk. The menu mentioned it usually comes with a little sugar, but they happily left it out.

The barista looked me straight in the eye.

“It’s strong.”

As though he was warning me.

Me.

I laughed.

“It better be. How else do you make coffee?”

He laughed too.

End scene.

The Bagel Brothers served another dependable cà phê sữa đá, while Polka Brew surprised me with their “Vietnam Almond Coffee.” Condensed milk, almond syrup, and two shots of espresso sounded like they might be trying a little too hard.

They weren’t.

It somehow stayed balanced and tasted like someone had translated Vietnamese coffee into another dialect instead of another language.

Then there was The Scorpio.

An empty chair waited outside as if someone had reserved it for me. I settled in with my coffee and a few pages of American Pastoral. The weather hinted at rain, and for a while everything was perfect.

Until the sidewalk sales parade began.

Every few minutes someone appeared offering sunglasses, phone accessories, shoe shines, or a tour of the Củ Chi Tunnels.

No, thank you.

No, really.

I just wanted to sit quietly with my coffee and my book.

Sometimes finding peace in a busy city means politely saying “no” twenty times.

Katinat delivered another solid espresso with milk over ice, while Dú Ký Café offered something completely different: a slow-dripped black Vietnamese coffee. Around me, groups of men gathered to watch a World Cup match, arguing and cheering between sips. Coffee isn’t just a drink here. It’s a reason to linger. To debate. To watch time pass.

Cà Phê Pha Máy on Bùi Viện rounded out another stop with yet another excellent cà phê sữa đá.

I’m beginning to suspect it’s impossible for me to walk more than a few blocks in Vietnam without finding another cup worth remembering.

My final stop was the trendy 2D Sketch Café.

The illusion is clever. Everything looks hand-drawn, like you’ve stepped into a comic book. It’s worth seeing once.

But here’s the thing.

The coffee on the sidewalks of Saigon costs less than half as much, tastes better, and comes with real life instead of painted walls.

I’d choose the sidewalk every time.

The best coffee isn’t always about beans or brewing methods. It’s about the smile that makes you turn around. The barista who jokingly warns you about the strength. The conversations you accidentally become part of. The old men watching football. The pages read between interruptions. The feeling that, for an hour, a tiny plastic stool or a simple glass mug is exactly where you’re supposed to be.

Vietnam keeps reminding me that coffee isn’t something you rush.

July 2026