On the walls of Punakha, the phallus stands bold—ancient, untamed, a symbol of life and protection. Spirals of smoke wrap around it, warding off the evil eye, laughing at prudish stares. It’s not obscene, but sacred—a nod to Drukpa Kunley, the Mad Saint, whose wild, enlightened wisdom shakes the straight paths of life. This is Bhutan—spirituality with humor, holiness with edge.